Ant Control Tips

 If you are experiencing an ant problem, identifying the ant species may be of help when trying to choose control methods. In this article, we review how to identify a few main species and control options available.

There are several species of ants that you may encounter invading your home or outdoor area.  Some of the more common types are carpenter ants, pharaoh ants, sugar ants, black ants, house ants, thief ants, odorous house ants, argentine ants, crazy ants, ghost ant, acrobat ant, big headed ant, pavement ant and red imported fire ant.

Carpenter ants in the United States are some of the largest ants and there can be several different types of carpenter ants infesting one home or business at a time.  You will want to look for a black or red black in color and and they are typically about 3/8 to ½ inch in size.  And you will typically see worker ants.

Carpenter ants are polymorphic meaning that the same species can have multiple sizes of workers.  One of the best methods of identifying carpenter ants from other ants, is to look for their specific characteristics.  They will have a waist with only one node and a thorax with an evenly rounded upper surface.

The Argentine Ant is thin and brown and the size of a grain of rice. If you have trouble determining whether or not you have an Argentine Ant, bring a sample to your local extension service and they should be able to tell you.  The Argentine Ant gets protein from eating insects, but prefers the honeydew liquid that is made by aphids, scales, mealy bugs and whiteflies.  You will often find him under boards, stones, tree stumps and potted plants, searching for his favorite meal. The Argentine Ant may begin to move indoors in the fall, as his food sources dwindle during that time. Although it may be difficult to completely eradicate the Argentine Ant, you can discourage him from sharing your immediate space, and from ruling your outdoor living areas. 

One of the most dangerous ants to have invading your home is the Red Imported Fire Ant. When dealing with a fire ant infestation indoors, it is important to utilize all methods of control and be safe about chemical applications.  Fire ants look like ordinary house or garden ants, but have some distinguishing characteristics. They can vary in size within one nest, from 1/16 to 1/5 inch long. Fire ants are dark reddish brown in color on the head and body, with a darker abdomen. Fire ants are extremely aggressive when disturbed, and if one bites you, you’ll know for sure you’ve been bit.

Options for indoor control include products like; gels, baits, dusters and sprays.  Some of the household ants that will be affected by these applications aresugar ants, Pharaoh ants, Cornfield Ants, Argentine Ants.  Gels and baits are good because your chemical pest control is contained to one area and are not spreading the chemicals onto numerous surfaces in your home.

Outdoor ant control may include products such as granules, liquid sprays and baits.  Granules are able to be broadcast or used to treat individual mounds.  Liquid spray insecticides may reduce populations of other nuisance insects in your area. Look for products that can incorporate in insect growth regulator to reduce the resurgence of ants on your property.

How to Control a Roach Infestation

 

No matter what the season; summer, spring, winter or fall, roaches never seem to take a holiday at all. Roaches come in many shapes and sizes and thrive without much attention at all. There are simple steps that you can take to minimize the opportunity for roaches to flourish in your household.  In this article, we discuss ways to keep roaches under control for the do it yourself pest controller.

There are over 3,500 species of roaches, but some are more likely to be the pests that invade your home.  There are only about 12 species of roaches that are the regular invaders of homes. Roaches belong to a suborder of insects called Blattaria, which means “to shun the light”. The actual word “cockroach” comes from the Spanish word, “cucaracha”, which means “crazy bug”. Texas can boast the most cockroach species of any other state, having as many as 30-35 species. Common household roaches are German, Banded, American, Oriental, and Woods Cockroaches.

Roaches are not only unsightly, but their excrement and decomposing bodies are triggers for allergies and asthma. Cockroaches can also carry diseases like dysentery, typhoid and poliomyelitis, as well as gastroenteritis. It is therefore imperative for your safety and sanity to keep cockroach infestations under control.

Follow the quick and easy steps below to minimize cockroaches in your home:

• Make sure that your home is sealed from cracks and crevices that can allow any roaches in your home in the first place. 
• Check weather stripping, windows and screens, and utility entry points.
• Caulk where you can to seal any opportunity to let the outside pests in. 
• Check any pipes for even the smallest leak. 
• Keep garbage bins sealed and away from your home 
• Cut back any flowers and brush in direct contact with your home.
• Limit access to all food AND water sources for the roach 
• Store pet food in sealed plastic or metal containers
• Keep your dishes washed and dried daily  
• Do not leave water in the sink over night
• Wipe down counter tops as soon as you are finished using them
• Put trash out nightly 
• Enforce NO FOOD restriction in every room except for the kitchen dining area 

 

 

Treatment options for a cockroach infestation include:

• Glue or “sticky” traps that can be used to monitor  for any cockroach activity and species identification
• Boric based products that can be left on tops of cabinets or behind appliances to treat the stray few that wander into your home
• Insecticide sprays on a seasonal basis to stop cockroaches from becoming a full fledge infestation
• Gel based products can be used inside lower cabinets and crevices that may be allowing entry
• Cockroach bait traps set out seasonally can also provide effective long term control solutions

 

Following a regular regimen using the above combination of prevention, monitoring and seasonal treatments can keep your home cockroach free. Your family will thank you for it.

Mosquito Borne Diseases

If you have battled the terrible creature called mosquito, then you already know, it’s a daunting task. It is not one to be taken lightly. Mosquitoes are tiny, but quick. They seem to multiply in the blink of an eye. If you see one on Saturday, given favorable weather conditions, you’re likely to see 100 on Sunday. The reality of an infestation of mosquitoes is as terrible as the myth accompanying them.  And should the tiny mean bloodsuckers make it into your bedroom any given evening, you can say bye bye to any actual REM sleep. In this article, we will discuss mosquito borne diseases and methods to control a mosquito infestation.

According to the American Mosquito Control Association:

Mosquitoes cause more human suffering than any other organism -- over one million people worldwide die from mosquito-borne diseases every year. Not only can mosquitoes carry diseases that afflict humans, they also transmit several diseases and parasites that dogs and horses are very susceptible to. These include dog heartworm, West Nile virus (WNV) and Eastern equine encephalitis (EEE). In addition, mosquito bites can cause severe skin irritation through an allergic reaction to the mosquito's saliva - this is what causes the red bump and itching. Mosquito vectored diseases include protozoan diseases, i.e., malaria, filarial diseases such as dog heartworm, and viruses such as dengue, encephalitis and yellow fever.

A mosquito has four life stages; egg, larva, pupae and adult.  The first three of the mosquito’s life cycles occur in water.  The adult stage, you already know about.  Mosquitoes need water or damp marsh like areas to hatch from their eggs.   Therefore it stands to reason, that in order to stop mosquitoes in your habitat, you need to limit their access to standing water. 

The female mosquito lays her eggs on the water and they hatch in one to three days or remain dormant until they are flooded.

In order to survive, the larvae or "wigglers" that hatch must live in water. This stage lasts from five days to several weeks.

The larvae transform into pupae or "tumblers." During this stage, they do not feed but still move around while breathing. The adult mosquito is developing and will emerge in two to three days. Mosquitoes will over winter in either the egg stage or as adults.

Use the following guidelines to minimize your exposure to infected mosquitoes:

• Reduce breeding sites for the mosquito: The mosquito needs water to lay it’s larvae, so make certain that they is NO, nunca, nada, standing water anywhere in  your area.
• Wear mosquito repellant:Use an EPA recommended mosquito repellant for you and your family.
• Avoid being outdoors at dusk/dawn:which are mosquito high activity times and wear dark clothing and long sleeves if you are.
• Check and double check screen and cracks around your home:Make sure that the mosquitoes cannot gain access to you in your home by installing good screens and using weather stripping to seal doors ways.
• Treat standing water with products containing the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis, var. israelensis

 

If you have used all of the above tactics and continue to have a serious mosquito problem, consider using a regular regimen of mosquito targeting insecticides or a mosquito misting system, which allows for an automatic misting of mosquito insecticides on a scheduled basis.

Fly Problems? How to Treat a Fly Infestation

Summertime is prime time for flies to increase activity and become a problem for the do it yourself pest controller. There are many of types of flies that can cause a problem in our homes.  There are house flies, fruit flies, blue and green bottle flies, and moth flies.  Flies are prolific proliferators and eat most anything. Some flies can lay 150 eggs at a time, every 5-6 days.  Not only are they annoying, they can be carriers of numerous diseases and pathogens. In this article, we discuss ways to treat and limit a fly infestation.

Ohio State Extension Program says:

Domestic flies, often called "Filth Flies," are not only a nuisance by their presence, but are important from a human and animal health standpoint.  House flies may spread diseases such as conjunctivitis, poliomyelitis, typhoid fever, tuberculosis, anthrax, leprosy, cholera, diarrhea and dysentery. They may serve as intermediate hosts for parasitic tapeworms on poultry or parasitic roundworms on horses.

Luckily, there are a now plethora of pest control products to address our fly pest problems available to the general public. There are insecticide sprays, fly lights, fly baits, fly traps and treatments. Some treatments such as contact sprays are good for the immediate treatment of unwanted flies. Whereas other fly treatment options, such as fly traps and fly lights provide an ongoing support system to keep fly infestations under control.   

It is important to determine if your fly problem is only a fleeting instance, or associated with an ongoing breeding site. The treatment method for each situation would be different. For instance, have you only had fly issues during a gathering where food was outside for extended periods of time or do you constantly notice fly activity in and around your home?

For the first situation, you may only need to spray the outdoor area that will be used for your gathering a few hours before guests arrive. For the second situation, you may have a fly breeding site in or around your home.  In that instance, the breeding site would need to be located and eliminated. But you would also want to use a combination of baits and residual insecticide sprays to control the existing fly population and stop them from entering your residence.

There are other easy steps you can take to stop a fly infestation from happening in the first place:

• Be certain that your windows, screens and entry ways are sealed tightly and in good repair.
• Spray your entry ways and sills with a residual insecticide
• Use time released pyrethrin sprays
• Do not locate trash cans located near any entry ways.
• Empty cans regularly, and wash them out weekly with a good bleach bath.
• Use only trash cans with locking lids
• Keep food covered at all times
• Wipe up any crumbs, etc immediately
• Don’t leave produce on the counter without cover
• Check any cracks between your appliances and counter tops to be sure that there are no trapped food particles
• Keep the backs of cabinets clean and clear from excess storage items or clutter
• Review under sinks and appliances to be certain that there is no accumulation of food or moisture
• Do not leave any standing water or food build up in drains
• Regularly flush your drains to remove any ‘gunk’ that may be building up on the insides of pipes.

Controlling Pests on Pets

Pet lover’s, who also live in the deep and humid south, know how expensive and time consuming it can be to keep your pets safe and free from insect pests.  Mosquitoes that can carry heartworms and cause allergic reactions, while fleas and tick that carry a number of vector borne illnesses, as well as tape worms. A conscientious pet owner can easily spend $400 a year, minimizing they’re pets exposure to dangerous fleas and mosquitoes. In this article we will discuss the insect risks to our furry family members and ways to control infestations in our home and yard.

Both fleas and mosquitoes are extremely difficult pests to control in the warmer weather of the south. Given the opportunity, mosquitoes, ticks and fleas will completely take over your home and yard to make it their own, leaving your family pet as a 24 hour buffet.  The ideal situation is to make sure that your pet has protection against these nuisance pests and that they are also controlled for the sake of your family.

To keep your pet safe from mosquito borne diseases: It is imperative that your canine be on a heart worm preventative. There are options for injections that can last up to six months, or monthly ‘pills’ that you are able to administer at home. Although, no product can claim 100% efficacy, this dramatically reduces the possibility that your dog will develop heartworms. You should also try to keep your family pet inside during high mosquito traffic times, like dawn and dusk. If you are using a topical flea and tick controller application, there are some that include mosquito repellant as well. There are natural options that can repel mosquitoes and minimize the possibility that he is bitten at all. It is said that lavender, peppermint and geranium essential oils repel mosquitoes. Other reported effective natural repellents include lemon, cedar, eucalyptus, myrrh, neem and rosewood. You can try this by putting a few drops between the dogs or cats shoulder blades or on their collar.

In order to minimize fleas and ticks on and around your pets, monthly topical repellants are a good option. Especially the water proof types for pets that are in and out of doors regularly. Natural repellants such as Lavender, lemongrass and geranium repel ticks.  Lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and citronella are said to repel fleas.  Be sure to consult with your veterinarian to see if your pet is a good candidate for topical applications. Newly developed products offer fewer side effects than when they were initially developed. Be careful of strong pesticide applications on your pet, they can be toxic.

You must also be diligent about keeping fleas and mosquitoes out of your home and yard.  Mosquitoes need moisture to breed, so remove all standing water. If mosquito insecticide sprays, mists, or foggers are used for treatment of your home or yard, remove your family and pets until the area has dried completely.  Some products like Diatomaceous earth and Insect Growth Regulators offer control with less impact on our environment. Although, they will not kill the insect pests immediately, they will help you keep your insect populations under control. 

Use IGR's for Flea Control

Insect Growth Regulators are a relatively newer class of pest control agents that have less harmful effects on our environment. In this article, we will discuss ways that Insect Growth Regulators can be used to control flea infestations for the do it yourself pest controller. Insect growth regulators were developed by entomologists as they studied the growth cycle of insects. Insect grow regulators are much more specific to insect development and therefore have less impact on other life forms, including mammals. Insect growth regulators can perform their magic my mimicking juvenile growth hormones in insects and either altering the production of chitin (the compound insects use to make their exoskeleton) or by altering an insect's development into adulthood. In some cases, the insect will develop too quickly, in other cases, IGR’s stop development. Most other pesticides work by delivering neurotoxins to the pests, and since basically most animals neurological functioning is similar, the pesticides are toxic to numerous organisms. IGR’s circumvent this by delivering the chemical directly relative to that pests biology to alter development. This gives the do it yourself pest controller an additional tool against pests that can be used with much more peace of mind. Why Use Insect Growth Regulators: • They Target Specific Pests • Less impact on our environment • Decrease chances of insects developing resistence • Breaks the life cycle of the pest In regards to controlling flea infestations, IGR’s are a godsend. Fleas have four life stages and have different needs in each. The different life stages have different requirements for the flea, and different requirements for controlling the flea. A pesticide that kills the adult flea may have no effect on the developing eggs or larvae. But the IGR acts on the immature stages of a flea’s life cycle. Flea eggs deposited on or flea larvae crawling onto treated surfaces will not develop into adult fleas. If an IGR is not used, you will have adult fleas again bouncing around your home within four weeks. By using an IGR, you have broken the life cycle of the flea and can effectively contain your flea infestation. The do it yourself pest controller must also be certain to treat outdoor areas and pets for fleas at the same time that the home is treated so that your fleas are not being continually reintroduced to your living area. If your yard is infested with fleas, you can be sure that they will find their way in doors, so it is important to contain the outside infestation as well. Indoors, there are some items that you will not want to spray with pesticides, such as bedding, pillows, stuffed animals, etc. Be sure to wash all of these items in a hot water cycle on your washer to kill any fleas/eggs that might have found their way there.

Termidor-You Can't Afford Not To

Termidor®b> is 100% effective at controlling 100% of termites in three months or less - a statement no other termite control product can make. That's why since its introduction in 2000, pest management professionals have made Termidor America's leading termite control, with more than one million structures treated. It's the product's unique "Transfer Effect™," allowing Termidor to achieve 100% control of termite populations at the very low rate of just 0.06% active ingredient. And because Termidor is a non-repellent - undetectable to termites - the pests freely forage through treated areas, unknowingly ingesting, picking up and transferring Termidor throughout the population •A 20 oz bottle of Termidor Termiticide will make 25 gallons of finished solutions. •Apply product at a rate of 4 finished gallons per 10 linear feet. •Product will treat 62.5 linear feet of structure for termite control •This is the same active ingredient in Frontline Drops you put on your pets for fleas and ticks. •Kills all types of drywood and Subterranean and Formosan termites

Demand CS Insecticide

Demand CS Insecticide Knockdown For Almost Any Insect! Check out what Demand CS can do for you.... For superior control of general and nuisance pests including mosquitoes, ants, flying insects and spiders, harness the power of iCAP™ Technology with Demand® CS Insecticide - A Powerful Insect Repellent. With a unique capsule suspension of the active ingredient, lambda-cyhalothrin, Demand achieves knockdown of most pests within 15 minutes, and delivers unsurpassed residual that lasts several months, even at extremely low use rates. •Demand CS Insecticide can be used against cockroaches, crickets, darkling, hide and litter beetles, mosquitoes, pill bugs, scorpions, spider mites ticks, ants, bees, box elder bugs, carpenter bees, carpet beetles, centipedes, cigarette beetles, clover mites, cockroaches, confused flour beetles, firebrats, silverfish, fleas, flies, grain borers, millipedes, flour beetles, weevils, sowbugs and wasps. Just about anything! •Can be used in homes, restaurants, hospitals, and even outdoors! •Demand CS Insecticide, is concentrated and microencapsulated for a long residual (200+ days) and can also be used outdoors.

Leaf Footed Plant Bug

Click HERE for more info

Fight Fire Ants Article

Click HERE for the full article

Non Toxic Bed Bug Solutions

If you have ever had the unfortunate experience of finding your home invaded by bed bugs, I can pretty much bet that you NEVER want to experience a bed bug infestation again. But, since bed bugs can go up to a year without a meal, you have to be dedicated to monitoring for any bed bug activity that you may have missed. In this article, we discuss some easy and non toxic DIY ways to keep bed bugs out of your home.
First of all, if you have treated for a bed bug infestation, you need to monitor that the bed bugs do not return. One easy and effective way to do this is to use bed bug monitors that are inexpensive and easily accessible from online pest control suppliers. Some of the monitor traps use carbon dioxide and heat as an attractant. You can check your traps regularly to see if any stray bed bugs have survived your treatment and are beginning their little bed buggy activities in your home again.
Interceptor traps are another easy way to keep one step ahead of the bed bug. These traps can be placed around legs and supports of beds and sofas can potentially confirm an infestation or minimize bed bug access to your bed.
Mattress encasements and pillow encasements are a must. They limit the bed bugs’ access to the small seems and crevices on your mattress that often serve as their hiding places. Having a mattress encasement will allow you to be able to better monitor your bed for any bed bug activity.
High temperature steam cleaners are also available from online pest control suppliers. You can get in to a routine of regularly steaming your bed, furniture and drapes with a high heat steam to diminish the possibility that hatching eggs, or dormant bed bugs can reestablish themselves into your home.
Get into the weekly schedule of performing high heat washing of all pillows, shams, comforters and dust ruffles. Although it may seem like a pain now, as you know, it is much easier than having to treat you entire home with bed bug chemicals.
Regular vacuuming is a good preventative measure as well. The key to using vacuuming with bed bug control is to empty the canister contents into a sealable plastic bag. Once you have sealed the bag, place it in a deep freezer for at least a week before relocating it to the trash bin. That way, in case you have vacuumed up any bed bugs or eggs, they will be simply moved to a different area of your home by way of the vacuum.
Performing all of these easy and non toxic methods on a regular basis will help you rest assured that your home is bed bug free and your family is well protected.

Vector Ban--BYE BYE Mosquitoes!

Andrew Klein Discusses Bed Bugs in New York City

Klein, president of Manhattan-based Assured Environments, discusses the rise of bed bugs in commercial accounts, sustainability and NPMA's Bed Bug Committee.

Courtesy of PCT Online!

Gentrol Insect Growth Regulators Help Out!

Gentrol® IGR Concentrate
•Insecticide Concentrate travels deep into wall cavities, cracks and crevices
•Reaches pests that other treatments neglect.
•Can be used in: apartment buildings, bakeries, bottling facilities, laboratories, cereal processing facilities, manufacturing plants, mausoleums, meat and produce canneries, nursing homes, restaurants, schools, locker rooms, stores, taverns, warehouses, pet stores, as well as various modes of transportation, such as aircraft, buses, trucks, trailers, rail cars and marine vessels.
•Heavier than air - will move on air currents that help carry it deep into cockroach harborage sites.
•Attaches itself to organic matter, such as cockroach food sources.
•Can cause female German cockroaches to abort the egg capsules they are carrying and return to their pre-pregnancy feeding habits.
•Decreases cockroaches' tolerance to insecticides.
•A valuable tool in helping cockroach baits work faster and more efficiently, making it one of the Best Pest Control Products available to kill cockroaches for good.
•An integral part of your Integrated Pest Management program.

Gentrol® IGR Concentrate Target Pests

Bed bugs, cockroaches, stored product pests and fruit & drain flies.

•Contains the Insect Growth Regulator (S)-Hydroprene, which disrupts pests' normal growth pattern.
•Labeled for use as a spot and crack-and-crevice treatment in all areas of food handling establishments.
•May be applied as a general fogging agent or general surface spray.
•Long-term control 120 days.
•Breaks the endless clean-out/reinfestation cycle.

How It Works

Gentrol® IGR Concentrate travels deep into wall cavities, cracks and crevices, reaching the pests that other treatments miss. (S)-Hydroprene, the active ingredient, prevents pest larvae from progressing to the adult stage either causing sterility of adults or preventing the emergence of insects from the pupal stage preventing future infestations. Stored product pests encounter (S)-Hydroprene the same way they encounter insecticides contacting a treated surface.

Outdoor Fire Ant Control

When attempting to control ants with chemicals, the most basic options are direct application to the mounds or a broadcast application. With a broadcast application, there is more insecticide used and greater risk to the area ecology so it should be used only where there are extreme numbers of mounds. It must be noted, that to reduce your ant populations, you must kill the queen. So either application of chemical control must meet that objective to be considered a success. In this article we review direct and broad cast applications for ant control.

Mound Treatments:
If you are planning on using the individual mound treatment, you must be sure that the chemical goes deep into the mound to reach the queen. If using Liquid Treatments, drench the mound so that the liquid chemical is able to seep down into center and reach a many ants as possible. All ants in contact with the chemical insecticide should die in less than a day. Be aware that spring and fall are the preferred application times because of the moderate temperatures of 70 – 85 degrees. Hot summers find the ants resting deeper into their mound making it more difficult to reach them. If you must make application during the hot summer months, chose early morning or cooler evening times. Follow all directions on the chemical application of choice to ensure the efficacy of your product. Mixing incorrect ratios might serve to worsen your ant problem instead of curing it.

NCSU.edu recommends the following rates of application for liquid chemical control:
Apply the drench at a rate of approximately 1 gallon per 6 inches of mound diameter. At this rate, for example, a mound measuring 12 inches across would receive 2 gallons of insecticide drench. The amount of drench applied is more important than the concentration of insecticide in the drench. Thoroughly wet the ground to a distance of about 2 feet around the mound. Sometimes the drench does not kill all fire ants in a treated colony. The surviving ants will construct small mounds within 10 to 15 feet of the parent colony. Several days after the application, search the area around the treated colony for new mounds and treat them with the insecticide drench. Keep children and pets away from the treated area until it is dry (or as designated on the pesticide label).

If you chose to use Ant Baits for your mound treatments be aware that the baiting product may be compromised by exposure to very hot and humid conditions in a relatively short amount of time. Consider using baits in spring time before weather conditions are extreme. Also, you can put ‘food’ out near suspected ant foraging sites to gauge where your bait would be best utilized. Then sprinkle bait around the mounds according to label directions. An application of liquid chemical maybe used 5-7 days after baiting application to make sure all ants are effectively controlled.

Broadcast Applicatons:
If you have reached the conclusion that a broadcast application of chemical is your best option to control your ant problem, consider weather conditions before application. Most broadcast chemicals will need water to be applied for them to be effective. Apply the treatment directly before a rain is forecast and save yourself some work. Consider using broadcast applications during a spring and fall rotation to keep your ant problem to a manageable threshold.

Click HERE for a full listing of appropriate chemicals for ant control.

Introduction to Bird Control

How to Do a Professional Termite Inspection

Termites can cause thousands of dollars of damage to one of our most precious investments, our homes. They can silently invade and expand while the home owner is unaware. One of the best things that the DIY Pest Controller can do is a thorough home inspection. In this article, we will review termite home inspection tips of the professional pest controller.
If you see swarming termites, that is a pretty clear indication that you have a termite problem, but it is important not to wait until you see swarms to act. There are areas that should be inspected every six months to ensure that termites have not moved into your home.

Exterior:
Review any possible entry points such as siding, cracks in mortar, expansion joints, foundation voids, and porches. You are looking for any signs of activity which includes tubers (mud colored shelter tubes that are created by termites). These tubes may be located in the corners or cracks themselves, so get close and wear your glasses. Pay particular attention to areas where the earth comes into contact with wood, stucco, or veneer. They will follow cracks and edges as “guidelines”. Your windows, sills, garage doors and frames are all areas that can conceal the tubes. Look for wings, pellets, or ‘bodies’ on sills. Moisture problems in any of these areas could increase termite susceptibility.
Also, review areas that have mulch and timbers that are near to your home. You may find actual living termites in these areas and this will let you know it’s time to make sure you have adequately protected with a chemical barrier.

Interior:
Your interior inspection will consist of squeezing into small spaces that no one wants to be in armed with a high power flash light. Your basement and crawlspaces need to be reviewed for the same signs of activity such as tubers, wings, bodies, actual damage to wood, and pellets. The foundation walls, joists, and sub flooring are all areas that need to be viewed and inspected. The cracks/corners where they meet are areas that tubes can be concealed. Also, if you are aware of an area directly behind a flower box or dirt filled porch, pay careful attention because this is an welcome entry point for termites. You may have to move some insulation aside by hand to view the structure underneath. Your attic is not normally the primary entry point, but an inspection of it as well will give you even more peace of mind.

Many treatment and prevention products only previously available to the professional pest controller are now available to the do it yourself-er. You can easily review your options for termites such as; chemical barriers, baits, traps and gels to keep your home and family well protected.

Keep Flies From Entering

Nothing is a more unwelcomed sight than to have flies zooming about inside of your home. Not only is it annoying but an unwanted fly problem can be very embarrassing as well. The presence of flies is somehow tied to notions of unsanitary. One way to keep flies under control is to limit their entrance into your home in the first place. In this article, we will discuss how to keep flies from entering your home.

First of all, be certain that your windows, screens and entry ways are sealed tightly and in good repair. If there are tiny cracks, crevices or tears in the screens, you are handing over your home to flies for their pleasure. If one fly can make its way in, you can bet more flies will follow. Try spraying your entry ways and sills with a residual insecticide so that if a few flies move in, they will die where they land. Time released pyrethrin sprays are another option. Pay attention that you do not have trash cans located near any entry ways. Flies LOVE trash cans and are very opportunistic. Make their lives a little harder by extending the area that they would have to travel from meal to meal.

While we are discussing trash cans, make sure that you empty yours very, very regularly. Sitting trash decomposes and emits more enticing odors to the fly. Giving them ample time to reproduce and begin another generation. So empty cans regularly, and wash them out weekly with a good bleach bath. Using locking lids can also limit access to your trash as a breeding and feeding site for the fly.

When cooking, be sure to keep exposed food covered at all times. Wipe up any crumbs, etc. as soon as they are made. Don’t leave produce on the counter without cover. Check any cracks between your appliances and counter tops to be sure that no food particles have made their way down. Keep the backs of cabinets clean and clear from excess storage items or clutter.
Check under sinks and appliances to also be certain that there is no accumulation of food or moisture, further limiting the fly’s access to a man made fly buffet.

Keep all drains free from any standing water or food build up. Regularly flush your drains to remove any ‘gunk’ that may be building up on the insides of pipes. Drain flies particularly love this type of environment. Don’t forget to check bathroom shower and tub drains for build-up of soap scum, hair, etc. It sounds gross, but remember, you are making your home completely unappetizing for fly existence.

If you are able to remove all food sources and breeding site, your fly problem can be limited to one or two strays who accidentally gain access to your home, instead of a replay of horror film proportions.

How to Control Earwigs

Earwigs are generally a nuisance pest, and don’t cause much stir for homeowners. But last year, Houston saw an invasion of earwigs in previously unprecedented proportions due to an unusually hot summer. With an unusually warm winter, be prepared for a hotter summer. In this article, we discuss earwigs and what to do in case earwigs try to move indoors again.

Earwigs are omnivorous insects and one of the few that actively hunt for food. They will feed on insects, plants and ripe fruit. Earwigs can live for up to one year from hatching. An interesting fact about earwigs is that the mother actually does attend to her eggs, and sometimes the hatchlings until their first molt.

Earwigs are distributed throughout the Americas and Eurasia. The common earwig was first found in North America in 1907. Presently, earwigs are usually found in the southern and southwestern states, although the spine-tailed earwig has been found in Canada.

The earwigs are normally nocturnal, and generally like dark, cool and moist crevices or debris to shelter in. They will often be found in mulch, dense ground cover or loosened tree bark. While earwigs like cool places, they do not like freezing temperatures and cannot survive under extreme conditions.

During the extremely hot Houston summer, it is believed that the earwigs all moved indoors to receive relief from the excruciating heat as their normal safe zones heated up and dried out. If we experience more unusually hot summers, we can expect the masses of earwigs to continue to seek shelter in air conditioned and damp places.

So how is the DIY pest controller to keep earwigs at bay?

One of the best ways to control earwigs is to keep them out of your home in the first place. To keep earwigs out of you r home, try using an insecticide perimeter spray around your home to limit earwig entry. Another option is to use a granular insecticide and sprinkle it in a three to six foot band round the home. If you have mulch around your home, sprinkle the insecticide directly into the mulch.

If you are able to keep them out, you will have less reason to expose your home interior to insecticides.

Remember, Earwigs are attracted to damp areas, as are many other pests. So try to minimize any areas which may be holding excess moisture. Check your crawl spaces, leaky faucets or water run off from your air conditioning units. Inside, be sure that you basement is as dry as possible. Don’t invite trouble.

Mother D - Diatomaceous Earth! Effective and Earth Friendly!

MotherEarth D is a broad spectrum desiccant dust with 100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth for long lasting control of crawling insects.


Diatoms are harmless against humans and pets and are completely natural.

MotherEarth D is made of the highest-quality diatomaceous earth, lasts virtually forever if left untouched and provides long-lasting control of insect pests.

Mother Earth D should not be the only product used in the fight against bed bugs as it does not kill quick enough. For best results, use a contact kill such as Sterifab or Bedlam in addition to the dust product.


Diatomaceous Earth is a naturally occurring substance composed of fossilized shells and water plants. Since it is not toxic to the environment or humans, it has numerous uses in pest control. In this article, we will discuss diatomaceous earth and its various uses for the do it yourself pest controller.
Since diatomaceous earth has very sharp edges and tiny pores, it acts as a desiccant. If you can imagine that diatomaceous earth is like tiny shards of glass and the bugs that walk over and through it end up have their waxy protective layer removed, and they in essence dry out or are cut up. Diatomaceous earth acts as a physical control of pests, not a chemical control. Therefore, Diatomaceous earth is not toxic to our environment, humans or animals, but direct inhalation of it should be avoided, as with any other tiny particle substance.
Diatomaceous earth is relatively inexpensive, making it an excellent choice for the DIY pest controller. The only down side to diatomaceous earth is that, if you are using out of doors, it is important to realize the wetting the diatomaceous earth will make it ineffective, and reapplication will be necessary.
Let’s discuss some of the popular uses for diatomaceous earth.
INDOOR USE
DI will work to keep your indoor pests under control. Indoor insects that can be targeted are ANTS, COCKROACHES, EARWIGS, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS. Using a hand duster, lightly apply in dry areas where crawling insect pests are found or may hide, including cracks and crevices, along baseboards, around sinks, cabinets, refrigerators and stoves and in attics and basements. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control. DE is not a bait, you cannot place a small amount of DE in one area and expect the pests to “find” it. Place the DE in areas where there is known pest activity. If you are using vacuuming in your pest control regimen, placing some DE in the vacuum canister will kill those pests that are captured by the vacuum. This will help you to not simply relocate indoor pests to another area in your home. DE can serve as a ongoing control for BED BUGS once you have addressed the initial bed bug problem with appropriate chemical measures.
FLEAS: To control fleas infesting pet areas, thoroughly treat floor and bedding in and around pet's sleeping quarters. Treat surrounding cracks and crevices, baseboards, furniture, carpeting and wherever fleas are suspected. Apply a thin coat of dust to rugs and carpets. You should rake (not sweep) nap back and forth, causing dust to enter rug or carpet. Let product sit overnight. Repeat application as necessary and vacuum every 3 - 4 days for effective flea control. DE will kill fleas and help deodorize carpet or rug.
If you have a vacation or summer home that is closed up regularly, applying DE to the home before it is retired for the season will offer long term and non toxic pest control without great expense or effort.
OUTDOOR USE
DE is effective for the treatment of outdoor ANTS, EARWIGS, MITES, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS. Try using a hand duster or other equipment suitable for application of dusts, dust lightly in areas where insects are found such as windowsills and doorframes, around foundations and along ant trails. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control. Repeat treatment in problem areas as necessary for control.

Chinch Bug Problem

If you are a Southerner, nothing causes you quite as much pleasure as a barefoot walk across your beautiful, soft, green St. Augustine lawn. Chinch Bugs are a huge nuisance and can cause brown dead spots with veritable ease. In this article, we discuss the Chinch Bug identification and control methods.

Chinch Bug identification is important. First of all, if you notice irregular patches of dead or stunted grass, surrounded by a halo of yellow, you may have a Chinch Bug problem. Although, a Chinch Bug issue can easily be confused with certain types of diseases, usually, brown patch disease will occur in a circular or semi circular fashion, while the Chinch Bug destruction will be irregular. An easy way to identify that it is a Chinch Bug issue is to witness the little buggers yourself.

One way to locate the Chinch Bug is to simply part the grass with your hands and see what you see. It is imperative to not mistake the Big Eyed Bug with the Chinch Bug. The Big Eyed Bug is a beneficial pest and will eat off many detrimental pests from your lawn. To distinguish the two, the Chinch Bug has a more narrow body in relation to its head. The Big Eyed Bug will have larger protruding eyes and the head is at least as wide as the leg bearing portion of its body(the thorax). The Chinch Bugs head is much more harrow than it’s thorax, the eyes are small in proportion, and the Chinch Bug will have a distinctive white wing with black triangular marks.

Another good method is to cut the bottom and top from a coffee can and simply push it into the ground with a twisting motion, creating a sample. Then fill the can with water, and wait about ten minutes. If Chinch Bugs are present, they will float to the surface. This is called the flotation method. Be sure that you do not test in dead grass, only damaged.

If you isolate that Chinch Bugs are your problem, and they are causing substantial damage to your lawn, you may need to take chemical action to end your Chinch Bug problem. There are a variety of liquid or granular insecticides that will control chinch bugs. The granular type should be applied with a standard fertilizer spreader, and then watered lightly to initiate the insecticide component. Be sure that you do not spread the insecticide onto sidewalks or walkways where it can be washed in to water ways.

Sweep up any excess that has found it’s way to these surfaces.

Using a liquid spray is easiest by applying a hose end sprayer that can distribute 15-20 gallons per 1,000 square feet.

Vector Fruit Fly Control Video

What to Do About Carpenter Bees?

Although Carpenter Bees are common, and usually do no severe damage by their tunneling, they can sometimes be extremely dangerous and cause structural damage if the same timber is used by colonies year after year. In this article, we discuss how to identify carpenter bees and control methods for carpenter bees.
There are a dozen different species of carpenter bee in the United States alone. The different species may each prefer a different nest type, those that nest in sound structural wood can become an expensive pest.
The carpenter bee is a metallic blue black color and measures a substantial ¾-1 inch long. They have orange or yellow hair and can look like bumblebees except for their tail section. The carpenter bee has a black tail section which has no hair.
The carpenter bee likes to over winter in their nest tunnels that were built the summer prior. April or May is the right time for the bees to reemerge and begin mating.
Now, the female will reuse an older egging area, or extend it, or build a completely new one. This is where she bores into the wood, deposits an egg and seals it off with its ‘bee bread’ nutrient for growing. Usually the newly formed adults will emerge in late August or September.
So, now that you know a little about carpenter bees, what can you do to prevent them from nesting near your home?
Well, carpenter bees may often be found around fences, patios, wood shingles, eaves, outdoor ceilings and windowsills. Any wood that is unfinished or painted and well weathered is a good choice for a carpenter bee.
You can locate the next by looking for bee activity and a perfectly round hole about the size of a dime. Once you have located the entrance, apply dusts or insecticide sprays into the nest entrance and on a large area of wood surface surrounding the area. Then, after approximately a half or whole day, plug up the hole. Be very, very careful to wear protective equipment and use the insecticides according to the labeled directions.
If nests are located, it is important that you remove the damaged wood and replace it with pressure treated wood, which will deter further nesting attempts. Also, painting your wood or white washing it will keep carpenter bees from nesting again. Use all of the above strategies to control carpenter bees in your outdoor living area.

How to Correctly Identify Your Insect

How to Identify Your Insect

Carpenter ants in the United States are some of the largest ants and there can be several different types of carpenter ants infesting one home or business at a time. You will want to look for a black or red black in color and and they are typically about 3/8 to ½ inch in size. And you will typically see worker ants.

Carpenter ants are polymorphic meaning that the same species can have multiple sizes of workers. One of the best methods of identifying carpenter ants from other ants, is to look for their specific characteristics. They will have a waist with only one node and a thorax with an evenly rounded upper surface.




You want to correctly identify your ant, because some ants the resemble a carpenter ant are not wood destroying ants an can easily be mistaken for one.

Another confusing thing occurs when people see what they refer to as winged ants, you may have termites or you may have carpenter ants, so you will want to know the difference between the 2 and how to identify them correctly.
The difference between the 2 is that carpenter ants have dark colored bodies and narrow waist line, they have a definite segmented body where a termite will not. The Carpenter ant will have elbowed antennae and the hind wings will be shorter than their front wings.
Is it a Ant or Termite



Termites on the other hand are have light colored and not waist, they will have straight antennae and the wings are of equal length.

Carpenter ants eat forms of protein and sugar and outdoors the carpenter ants will feed on living and dead insects. Carpenter ants are also very attracted to honeydew which is a sweet liquid produced by aphids and scale insects. Indoors, carpenter ants feed on meats, as well as syrup, honey, sugar, jelly, and other sweets. They can switch from eating a sweet to a protein source at specific times of their season and also based on the food source that has been available to them. Carpenter ants are not eating the wood, they are only removing the wood as they create their galleries and tunnels.
Carpenter ants typically forage at night in between the sunset and midnight during the warmer months if summer. Most foraging is done at night between sunset and midnight during spring and summer months. Sometimes workers travel up to 100 yards from a nest in search of food.

Carpenter ants will build their nest in moist wood including rotting trees, tree roots, tree stumps, and logs or boards lying on or buried in the ground. They are also attracted to areas that are moist and contain decaying wood. Areas in your home that maybe water pools or the gutter leaks in that particular site are all good places to look for termite or carpenter ant activity.

Nests have been found behind bathroom tiles; around tubs, sinks, showers, and dishwashers; under roofing, in attic beams, and under subfloor insulation; and in hollow spaces such as doors, curtain rods, and wall voids. Carpenter ants may also nest in foam insulation.

The Carpenter ant causes damage to wood by excavating and creating their galleries and tunnels. How much damage depends on how long a colony has been there in that particular piece of wood.

Most people start seeing carpenter ants during the spring months, and if you can determine if they are coming from outside to the inside or if you have an interior nest that would be great. It is not always that easy, and the use of baits and non repelling insecticides will make it less necessary to know where they are living. If you are seeing them in late winter it is most likely that they have a active colony inside the structure.

Reproductive ant swarms are usually seen in early spring when temperatures and moisture levels are ideal for starting a new colony. Carpenter ants will produce large numbers of queens and males during late summer. They emerge from nests the following spring for their nuptial flights. After mating, queens search for suitable sites to begin new nests. Once they land, their wings break off and each queen attempts to construct a new nest.

When carpenter ant nests are indoors, mating swarms become trapped inside. Finding large numbers of winged ants indoors is a sure sign that an indoor nest exists and may give the approximate location of the colony.
It is important to remove any source of moisture conditions that will attract the carpenter ants to an area, when doing an inspection look for areas that are consistently wet. A moisture meter may be of some use and are relatively inexpensive.

Remove stumps and store wood away from the structure that you are trying to protect from Carpenter Ants or really any ant for that matter that might fine this to be a great harborage area.

If the nest is exposed or you can identify the areas that the ants are trailing then you can spray a non repelling insecticide on the exterior of the structure. They cannot identify the chemical as being present so they continue about their daily routines moving in and out of the chemical. Firponil is a good choice of chemical and it is contained in the product,
Carpenter Ant Kits that continue both option for food source, you can text your ants by putting them both out at the same time, if they aggressively pick on food source up say the maxforce
carpenter ant bait which is a honey dew formulation, then continue to apply that particular bait until you no longer see ants. If they pick up Advance Carpenter ant bait which is a protein based product continues placing this out daily. Always place your bait in areas that the ants will come in contact with, never spray an insecticide in the area where you are trying to get them to pick up the bait. Be Patient! It can take a couple of weeks to eliminate a colony.

Sprays on surfaces where ants travel or congregate, such as along baseboards or in holes or cracks in the walls and floors, may reduce the frequency and number of ants you see, you would want to also use a non repelling chemical something like Phantom, which is also available in an aerosol formulation to make easy application.

If the nest cannot be located, baits are a effective alternative. The carpenter ant baits work by combining an attractive food source with a slow-acting toxicant. The ants consume the bait and return to the nest to share the bait with the rest of the colony. Carpenter ants have complex food preferences, and that is why we recommend purchasing the Carpenter Ant Kits that continue both option for food source, you can text your ants by putting them both out at the same time, if they aggressihttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifvely pick on food source up such as the Maxforce carpenter ant bait which is a honey dew formulation, then continue to apply that particular bait until you no longer see ants. If they pick up Advance Carpenter ant bait which is a protein based product continue placing this out daily as well.

Always place your bait in areas that the ants will come in contact with, never spray an insecticide in the area where you are trying to get them to pick up the bait. Be Patient! It can take a couple of weeks to eliminate a colony.

Mole Control

Moles are notorious for the amount of damage they can cause to a lawn, golf course and sod farms. Knowing a little about the mole, its habitat and diet will help you be more successful in your control and elimination projects.
With constant digging and tunneling in the search for their food source turf grass insects and earthworms, moles can do quite a bit of damage before you even know they are there.

The most common mole and the one that is known to cause the most damage is the eastern Mole.
There are two common methods for controlling moles in your lawn, Physical / mechanical control and chemical control.
Included in physical and mechanical control is habitat modification, which is attempting to resolve mole tunneling with turf grass insecticide to remove their food source. This often fails because mole also eat earth worms which will not be effected by the professional insecticide.

Exclusion of moles by using a barrier fence is somewhat effective but not always available to homeowners or large facilities. It is recommended to use ½ inch mesh hardware cloth or sheet metal and bury it to a depth of 12 to 18 inches.

Live trapping of moles using pit fall traps can be constructed of large coffee cans or other similar containers and buried in planting beds along frequently used surface runs. The traps must be deep and steep-sided to prevent the mole from escaping once inside. Bell laboratories manufacture a new mole trap that is effective and easy to use. This is a lethal trap and is similar to scissor jaw traps.

Chemical control of moles, the use of toxic baits can be very effective in mole control. New Anticoagulant mole gel bait (Kaput Mole bait) does work very effectively. New products that are in the shape of earth worms that are placed in the moles active run have reached the market that are creating very effective mole control, Talprid Mole Bait.
It can be very difficult to control moles in your lawn, but you should not give up the fight and beautiful mole free yard is worth the effort.

Seasonal Guide to Ant Control

SPRING

Ants search for protein to nourish the brood. Capitalize on this ant craving by selecting Maxforce Granular Insect Bait and/or Maxforce Bait Stations.

SUMMER

Ants forage for sweet honeydew, which is typically found on plants and ornamentals. Choose a bait that is high in carbohydrates, such as Maxforce FC Ant Killer Bait Gel.

FALL

Honeydew-producing insects begin to die off naturally so sweet-feeding ants will prefer Maxforce Ant Bait Gel. Maxforce Granular Insect Bait is also effective because it contains a balanced diet.

WINTER

When it’s cold outside, ant activity indoors indicates a colony has located inside the heated environment. This normally means that the ants are feeding on the same foods we eat, so a balanced bait or combination of protein and sweet Maxforce Baits will work best.

Keep Squirrel Pest Under Control

Squirrels can cause quite a bit of damage or become a simple nuisance to the homeowner when the squirrel decides to use the facility or house for their nest. Squirrels commonly will gnaw their way into attics and floor joists for food storage or to take up residence, moving into spaces in between walls and floors. They can gain access through vents, broken windows, knotholes, and construction gaps under eaves and gables. On occasion they may gain entry through the chimney and fireplace.
Squirrels have an incredible ability to gnaw and destroy wood and can cause large amounts of damage at times, especially in season homes, when they may be left for months on end unnoticed to do their bidding. In an occupied home, a squirrel usually does not go unnoticed for very large. Homeowners usually will hear their activities during the day time. A flying squirrel on the other hand is nocturnal and may go undetected.

In yards and landscaped areas squirrels can cause damage by digging up vegetables and flowers primarily looking for sees and bulbs.

Tree squirrels can be difficult to control, but there are a few options that will add in your success. Pruning tree branches at least 6 feet from buildings and homes, anything under 6 feet is considered and easy jump for the squirrel.

Do not feed the squirrels! By feeding and coaxing them to approach a home you are almost inviting them to come and stay.

Applying exclusion techniques (rodent Proofing) your house is really the best and most permanent method of preventing squirrels from entering your structure. When you are closing all entry routes, remember not to trap them inside.

If you need to reduce the population of squirrels live trapping is almost always the best method of choice. Using a sturdy Havahart Squirrel trap will make this job easier. Live catch traps should be 24”x8”x7”. If the squirrel is entering from trees and power lines, then putting the trap on the roof is idle. For squirrels that may seem trap shy, pre bait and make sure the door will not snap for a few days, this will help coax them inside. Baits that work well are peanuts, walnuts, pecans, acorns, sunflower seeds, and raisins. Check your traps once a day as a caged squirrel will not survive long.

Generic Brands Save You Money! D-Fense SC at ePestSolutions.com

D-Fense SC Insecticide with Deltamethrin has the same active ingredient as the popular Suspend SC Insecticide, but is much less expensive.

D-fense SC is a powerful suspended concentrate (SC) deltamethrin that provides excellent control of a wide variety of insect pests including bed bugs, ants, fleas, flies, silverfish, spiders and cockroaches. D-fense SC can be utilized http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifhttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.giffor crack and crevice and spot applications in homes, hotels, schools, businesses and more. The broad label also allows for spraying on mattresses and for doing broadcast applications for bed bugs and lice. D-fense SC is odorless and safe around kids and pets when used as directed. Provides a 2-3 month residual for long-term insect control.

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Will Warmer Weather Mean More Pests?

How to Control Fleas Using Precor Flea Spray

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Drywood Termites Article from UC Davis!

Read this thorough and well written article about Drywood Termites for UC Davis. Click HERE.

If you need pest control help for DryWood Termites, go straight to www.ePestSolutions.com! Our prices can't be beat!

How to Keep Bed Bugs from Coming Back!

Bed bugs can be a difficult pest to kill. The fact that they can live for up to a year without a meal makes them hard to completely rid yourself of. In this article, we discuss methods to kill bed bugs and to keep them from coming back.

Common signs that can indicate that you have a bed bug problem are:
• Finding blood stains on your mattresses or furniture.
• If you see “bed bugs” or their skin casts.
• Unexplained bites on you or your family

Any of these signs can signal a bed bug problem. There are now inexpensive “traps” that will lure bed bugs through temperature and CO2 so that you can monitor for bed bug activity if you are still uncertain after review the common signs.

What do you do after you are sure that you have bed bugs?

Well initially, treating all carpet, furniture, baseboards and bedding with high temperature steamer will kill any that it comes in contact with. Then vacuum those same areas and empty the canister into a sealable bag to be sent to the garbage bin.
There are bed bug kits that can be purchased from an online pest control supplier that have been specially formulated to address specific bed bug issues. Following this initial treatment protocol listed on the chemical agents should kill any bed bugs that are currently in your home.

But, being that bed bugs are able to live for up to a year without a meal, how can you protect your family from a reemergence of bed bugs?

Once you treat your living areas, bed bugs may retreat to walls or crevices where they can avoid becoming a pest statistic. One good way to address this bed bug problem is to access your inner walls and treat that area with a dust that specifically treats bed bugs. Dusts are extremely effective at holding their killing power. If you are able to, drill small holes behind baseboards or in areas that will not be visible due to furniture placement. If you have gaps in your ceilings, you may also wish to apply dusts in those areas as well.

Be sure to inspect your home at fourteen days for signs of any activity. Keep your bedbug monitors up to date, so that if there is ANY bed bug activity, you have immediate knowledge and can keep the bed bugs from becoming an infestation, and only an annoyance.

How to Use Advance Termite Bait Stations

 

 

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D-Fense SC Deltamethrin Insecticide! Saves YOU $$$$$

D-Fense SC Insecticide with Deltamethrin has the same active ingredient as the popular Suspend SC Insecticide, but is much less expensive.

D-fense SC is a powerful suspended concentrate (SC) deltamethrin that provides excellent control of a wide variety of insect pests including bed bugs, anhttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifts, fleas, flies, silverfish, spiders and cockroaches. D-fense SC can be utilized for crack and crevice and spot applications in homes, hotels, schools, businesses and more. The broad label also allows for spraying on mattresses and for doing broadcast applications for bed bugs and lice. D-fense SC is odorless and safe around kids and pets when used as directed.

Provides a 2-3 month residual for long-term insect control.

Target pests: Ants, Carpet Beetles, Firebrats, Fleas, Gnats, Midges, Centipedes, Millipedes, Pantry Pests, Silverfish, Ticks (indoors), Bees, Bed Bugs, Boxelder Bugs, Fleas (outdoors), Ticks (outdoors), Cecid Flies, Cockroaches, Crickets, Flies (including such flies as Stable, House, Cluster and Horseflies), Elm Leaf Beetles, Ground Beetles, Moths, Midges, Hornets, Killer Bees, Lice, Mosquitoes, Multicolored Asian Lady Beetle, Pillbugs, Scorpions, Sowbugs, Spiders, Yellowjackets, Wasps, Carpenter Ants.

The label also covers ornamental pests including Adelgids, Aphids, Azalea Lace Bugs, Bagworms, Boxelder Bugs, Cankerworms, Cardamom Thrips, Crickets, Elm Leaf Beetles, Elm Spanworms, European Pine Sawflies, Fall Webworms, Flea Beetles, Flies, Fungus Gnats, Grasshoppers, Greenstriped Mapleworm, Gypsy Moth (larvae), Imported Willow Leaf Beetles and more.

What You Need to Know About Mice

DIY Pest Control is becoming more and more accessible due to internet web sites with professional strength products at low price points. To be an effective DIY Pest Controller, you should also arm yourself with the facts about your particular pest to ensure success. In this article, we discuss facts about mice that you need to know to be a successful DIY pest controller.

Did you know that mice are very territorial and do not like to stray over than 30 feet from their nesting site?

Mice will also stay within 10 feet of their main food supply. Since they are good climbers, it is easy for them to make residence in ceilings, attics, or pipe runs. Also possible are areas below their food source, such as basements, floor voids and crawlspaces.

To use this mouse fact for effective DIY control, imagine a 10 foot sphere surrounding the entire area radiating from their food source. If you cannot locate the mice that way, expand the area to 30 feet, to search for the rodent nesting area. If your house has several floors and you are a finding mice throughout, using this information will let you know that there are several mice colonies in your home.

Did you know that mice like to travel on runways where their whiskers can touch a surface?

They prefer to utilize dark, protected areas, and have preference for corners.
You can use this mouse fact to help you in your DIY Pest Control regime by looking for rub marks along base boards. It is possible to leave a trail of talc along the suspected runway and check back in the morning for signs of foot prints. If you locate the rodent runway, place baits, glue traps and snap traps along these paths. The suggested distance for the traps is ten feet, or closer for heavier infestations.

Mice are very curious rodents and will investigate if their surroundings are altered.

You can use this to your advantage by rearranging furniture, etc. in areas that you suspect mouse activity. This can help you if you place traps out that evening, forcing the mice to venture out of their comfort zone.

Lastly, mice like to eat often, but just a little. They like dark and protected areas, and may prefer these sites within their feeding territory. If you have located one of their favored feeding areas, utilize this area for a concentration of baiting. But also, use your baiting and traps and numerous areas through out their territory. This will help you bait as many mice as possible, in a shorter amount of time.

Reference: www.pctonline.com August 2009 issue

DIY Rat Control

Of all of the rodent pest control problems that one can encounter, rats are definitely not one to take lightly. Rats can cause serious health problems for families if left untreated. In this article, we review what rats can do and treatment methods that the DIY Pest Controller might miss.

According to Baltimore County Public Health Department:

Rats can destroy or contaminate food supplies. Rodent feces and urine are a source of gastrointestinal diseases such as Salmonellosis or E-coli infections, and respiratory diseases such as Hantavirus. The rat flea has been an important agent of transmission for Plague and Murine typhus.

It is therefore important that the infestation of rats be taken vary seriously by the homeowner and DIY pest controller.

When attempting to battle rats, the DIY pest controller will more than likely contemplate baits and poisons. Both are necessary weapons in the DIY pest controllers arsenal against rats, but, a long term plan to kill the rats and keep them from returning may also be in order.

The DIY pest controller needs to assess the source of the rat infestation. Is your home in a rural or urban area? If you are in an urban area, do you have open garbage bins near your residence? If so, these are like buffet style rat feeders, which allow populations to flourish in the urban environment. If this is the source of your infestation, you may need to contact your regional governing body to alert them to this dangerous situation that they are allowing to fester by their lack of action. There are options that the city can adopt, including using baiting stations within the dumpster area or purchasing bins with secure lids that rats are unable to chew through.

If you are in a more isolated area, what does your trash area look like? Old fashioned metal garbage cans with the lids are the best for keeping rats out. Also, keep them as far away from your home as possible so that rats are less likely to migrate inside of your home.

Does the roof of your home have contact with limbs from trees, telephone/cable wires? If so, consider using a tamper proof weather resistant baiting station directly ON your roof. If you do so, you will minimize the rat population in your area, thus reducing the possibility that they will enter your home. While you are one the roof, be sure to check for signs of rodent entry into your home. All vents should be properly screened to disallow entry.

Use these handy tips to keep rats out and maintain control of your DIY pest control regimen.

The Great Mouse Detective

Mice are tiny, quick, and quiet. It is easy to ignore tell tales signs of mice activity until the mouse has become many mice. In this article, we review ways to quickly identify mouse activity and “find them, before they find you!”

In reporting there are the five W’s, Who, What, Where, When and Why. In mouse locating, they are a little different. One must be trained on how to look for mice. You have to think; Underneath, around, behind, and on top of. Mice like to keep out of your way, they are programmed to avoid places that they will be noticed. So think like a mouse, and go look where you normally wouldn’t.

Often times when I have had trouble with mice in the past, I would ignore seeing flashes out of the corner of my eyes. Thinking that I was just finally giving in to madness or losing my eyesight, seemed easier than facing the fact that I might have mice. So, we would recommend to you, pay attention with all of your senses (excluding taste).

Become a mouse detective and respect what each sense can tell you; sight, hearing, touch, and smell. Are you smelling an unusual odor in your home that you just can’t place? Do you hear noises in the evening after your home quiets? Be aware of WHERE those noises are originating? Do you see droppings? Finding any gnaw marks? All of these items can give you clues if your house has an unwanted rodent guest.
These items are important, because when treating your home for mice, the closer to the source of the mice that you get, the better chance you have of eradicating them.

By the source, I mean, are they nesting somewhere in your home? Are they creating a little mouse colony that will be repopulating your home frequently? If you know the main source of your problem, the better you will be able to choose the best treatment option for ridding your home of rodents, as well as place the treatments where they can do the most benefit.

One other item that you should check for is entry ways. Do you have easy access entry points for mice? Have you reviewed the outside of your home for cracks/crevices, utility/cable lines, or gaps around your doors and windows?

If these areas are adequately sealed and a treatment regimen conducted to remove the mouse pests from your home, mice should be a problem no more. But, never forget your mouse detective skills, and utilize them regularly to reduce the incidence of reoccurrence.

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Thickened Microbial Formula for Direct Application to Drains to Eat Away Scum Where Flies Breed, and for “Sugar Snake” in Soda Drain Lines

InVade™ Bio Drain Cleaner is a premium blend of microbes and citrus oil in a thickened formula that coats the sides of drains.


InVade Bio Drain will eat through the scum in drains to help prevent breeding of fruit flies, drain flies, and phorid flies.

The citrus oil provides extra power and a wonderful smell. For start up, this Drain Treatment product should be applied daily for the first week. Thereafter, one weekly dose should be sufficient.

InVade Bio Drain can also be applied in soda fountain drip tray drain lines to eat away “sugar snake” that clogs the lines.

Drain odors will quickly be eliminated when InVade Bio Drain is in use.

All About Drain Flies

Drain flies, sometimes called moth flies are non-biting gnats with dark wings. Drain flies can be a nuisance for home owners. In this article we discuss how to identify and treat a drain fly problem.

They can often be found resting on ceilings or walls, and take sort of “hopping” like flights if disturbed. Often drain flies are a temporary problem, since they develop in standing water. For instance, if you are gone for vacation, you may return to find drain flies, but once your household normal activity is renewed, the drain flies usually go away. If you notice that they are a problem over several weeks, you more than likely have a breeding site somewhere that should be located and cleaned to eliminate the drain fly.

Sources of Drain Flies

If you have flies in your home or workplace, identifying the breeding ground and its treatment is the key to controlling small flies.
The larval drain flies need moisture to survive and they can bread anywhere that water is standing for a week or so. Infrequently used toilet bowls and tanks, sink or floor drains in basements or garages, or drain pans under refrigerators.

Drains can present one of the most overlooked sources for breeding of small drain flies. Drains can look clean on the surface but pose an enormous breeding ground underneath. Floor drains can create an organically rich environment that will attract and breed insect growth.

Drains that have failed, have cracked or damaged pipes can be a major culprit in you insect problem. You may even be able to see the gray wriggling larvae swimming in the water.

All of these areas need to be cleaned thoroughly and be sure to remove surface film in order to kill drain flies and keep them out.

Drain fly larvae can remain submerged for a day or more because they are able to trap air bubbles, so they are very difficult to drown. The drain fly life cycle takes from about 10 to 15 days at about 70° F. If drain flies disappear and reemerge after 10-15 days, you know you will need to retreat your drains.

Here are a few recommendations for keeping your drains insect free:

•Pouring hot water down the drain may provide short-term control.
•Clean your drains regularly-drains should be opened and cleaned on a regular basis, using a wire bristle brush will help remove any excess organic matter.
•Check drain traps and remove any debris that may end up clogging your line.
•After cleaning drains use of a drain cleaner or biological agent into the drain is advised. As with all products follow label recommendations for use.

Although they are non- biting, drain flies and their larvae are just unsightly and annoying. Follow the prescribed measures and drain flies should be a thing of the past!

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