Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Facts About Ants
Ant Facts
More than 10,000 species may exist worldwide. Approximately 570 species occur in the United States and of these, fewer than 30 species may regularly infest homes and other buildings with only ten species considered major pests. Ants have succeeded in replacing other types of structural pests as the number one pest in homes in many parts of the United States. In Texas, the imported fire ant has been deemed by pest control companies as the number one structural pest. In the Pacific Northwest, carpenter ants are responsible for most homeowner calls to pest control operators.
All ant species member live in colonies with one to many queens, immature, numerous sterile female workers and occasionally males. The workers are wingless and characterized by elbowed antennae and the constricted first one or two segments of the abdomen.
Ants can be detrimental to human health; their presence under certain situations can pose a serious human health risk. In hospitals, health care facilities, food processing plants, food packaging plants and food preparation areas of various structures, the presence of ants should not be tolerated because of potential for disease transmission.
Ants frequently are annoying and sometimes dangerous because of their bites and or stings. Not all ants sting. In many ants, the sting has practically disappeared, but venom may be injected into a wound made from a bite. Many ants produce a toxin secreted by glands in the head which is deposited in the bite. The substance is called formic acid and is the source of the scientific name of the ants, Formicidae.
Ants commonly attack livestock. Workers of harvester and fire ants have been reported attacking and killing young pigs. There are also reports of fire ants attacking and killing chicks and newborn calves. Some species of the big-head ant are intermediate hosts of various poultry tapeworms.
Ants can damage crops and ornamental plants. The red imported fire ant is known to remove seeds from seed beds and feed on the seeds of corn, peanuts and beans. Workers of the red imported fire ant will chew on the roots, stems and leaves of plants. In some cases, seedlings are girdled and die.
Ants can spoil range land for grazing by building mounds and clearing sites for their nests. Harvester ants clear large areas of all vegetation about their nest structure. These ants have a potent sting which may further discourage grazing about their nests, Fire ants pose a special problem to harvest operations in hay fields as their large, hardened mounds are known to break harvesting equipment.
Enjoyment of parks and recreational areas where the fire ant is prevalent is often spoiled. Fire ants also show a fascination for electricity and have many reports of damage to electrical equipment. Carpenter ant workers will strip the insulation from cables, causing them to short.
Shade trees are damaged by Carpenter ants. Telephone poles are also not immune to ant attack.
Carpenter ants are the major group of ants that cause damage to wooden structures. These ants tunnel through wood but do not consume it for food as is the case with termites.
More than 10,000 species may exist worldwide. Approximately 570 species occur in the United States and of these, fewer than 30 species may regularly infest homes and other buildings with only ten species considered major pests. Ants have succeeded in replacing other types of structural pests as the number one pest in homes in many parts of the United States. In Texas, the imported fire ant has been deemed by pest control companies as the number one structural pest. In the Pacific Northwest, carpenter ants are responsible for most homeowner calls to pest control operators.
All ant species member live in colonies with one to many queens, immature, numerous sterile female workers and occasionally males. The workers are wingless and characterized by elbowed antennae and the constricted first one or two segments of the abdomen.
Ants can be detrimental to human health; their presence under certain situations can pose a serious human health risk. In hospitals, health care facilities, food processing plants, food packaging plants and food preparation areas of various structures, the presence of ants should not be tolerated because of potential for disease transmission.
Ants frequently are annoying and sometimes dangerous because of their bites and or stings. Not all ants sting. In many ants, the sting has practically disappeared, but venom may be injected into a wound made from a bite. Many ants produce a toxin secreted by glands in the head which is deposited in the bite. The substance is called formic acid and is the source of the scientific name of the ants, Formicidae.
Ants commonly attack livestock. Workers of harvester and fire ants have been reported attacking and killing young pigs. There are also reports of fire ants attacking and killing chicks and newborn calves. Some species of the big-head ant are intermediate hosts of various poultry tapeworms.
Ants can damage crops and ornamental plants. The red imported fire ant is known to remove seeds from seed beds and feed on the seeds of corn, peanuts and beans. Workers of the red imported fire ant will chew on the roots, stems and leaves of plants. In some cases, seedlings are girdled and die.
Ants can spoil range land for grazing by building mounds and clearing sites for their nests. Harvester ants clear large areas of all vegetation about their nest structure. These ants have a potent sting which may further discourage grazing about their nests, Fire ants pose a special problem to harvest operations in hay fields as their large, hardened mounds are known to break harvesting equipment.
Enjoyment of parks and recreational areas where the fire ant is prevalent is often spoiled. Fire ants also show a fascination for electricity and have many reports of damage to electrical equipment. Carpenter ant workers will strip the insulation from cables, causing them to short.
Shade trees are damaged by Carpenter ants. Telephone poles are also not immune to ant attack.
Carpenter ants are the major group of ants that cause damage to wooden structures. These ants tunnel through wood but do not consume it for food as is the case with termites.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
DIY Home Pest Inspection
If you are planning on doing your own pest control, one thing that will improve your chances of keeping the pests out is doing a complete home inspection. In this article, we cover where and what the DIY pest controller should look for when doing a home pest inspection. Certain conditions give rise to pests entering and flourishing in your home, so what can you do to minimize your chances of inviting pests into your home? Inspect your home for signs and symptoms of pest activity.
In your kitchen, bath and laundry areas follow the techniques listed below:
Exposed Food: Do you have pet food, decorative arrangements, bowls of fruit, or any other items that are openly exposed and available to pests?
Leaks and Moisture: Washing machines, tub/showers, garbage disposal units and sink cabinets should be checked for signs of the tiniest leaks and moisture retention. Spaces beneath tubs/showers can also be an access point for pests, and should be treated if you are able to access them.
Entry points: Dryer vents, windows, screens, door ways, cable/utility entry points, attic accesses are all easy entry ways for pests if not properly sealed. Copper mesh , caulk, and expandable foam can be used to minimize entry access.
Potted Plants: Although lovely, potted plants can be a mini eco system for pests to hide and flourish. Don’t forget to inspect these when looking for pests in your home.
Pantry: Are your foods stored in sealed containers or has there been any spillage left on shelves?
Pet Bedding: Pets can be a host for fleas and ticks and their bedding areas need to be inspected for signs of activity.
Hearth: Check your fireplace area for signs of moisture leaks in walls or ceiling areas and be sure that your firewood isn’t importing or harboring pests.
Bedrooms: Be sure to look in corners, baseboards, bedding and behind dressers for signs of spiders, silverfish, bed bugs, and clothes moths. Drapes and wall hangings should also be vacuumed and inspected regularly. Fleas can hide in low hanging drapes as well.
These techniques should help you to pest proof your home but also give you an adequate inventory of pests that may already be there and require treatment. If you see signs of pests, these are pinpointed treatment areas, since they are places that pests like to hide.
For most any type of pest, you can visit an online pest control supplier for access to professional strength products to treat almost any home pest that you may find.
In your kitchen, bath and laundry areas follow the techniques listed below:
Exposed Food: Do you have pet food, decorative arrangements, bowls of fruit, or any other items that are openly exposed and available to pests?
Leaks and Moisture: Washing machines, tub/showers, garbage disposal units and sink cabinets should be checked for signs of the tiniest leaks and moisture retention. Spaces beneath tubs/showers can also be an access point for pests, and should be treated if you are able to access them.
Entry points: Dryer vents, windows, screens, door ways, cable/utility entry points, attic accesses are all easy entry ways for pests if not properly sealed. Copper mesh , caulk, and expandable foam can be used to minimize entry access.
Potted Plants: Although lovely, potted plants can be a mini eco system for pests to hide and flourish. Don’t forget to inspect these when looking for pests in your home.
Pantry: Are your foods stored in sealed containers or has there been any spillage left on shelves?
Pet Bedding: Pets can be a host for fleas and ticks and their bedding areas need to be inspected for signs of activity.
Hearth: Check your fireplace area for signs of moisture leaks in walls or ceiling areas and be sure that your firewood isn’t importing or harboring pests.
Bedrooms: Be sure to look in corners, baseboards, bedding and behind dressers for signs of spiders, silverfish, bed bugs, and clothes moths. Drapes and wall hangings should also be vacuumed and inspected regularly. Fleas can hide in low hanging drapes as well.
These techniques should help you to pest proof your home but also give you an adequate inventory of pests that may already be there and require treatment. If you see signs of pests, these are pinpointed treatment areas, since they are places that pests like to hide.
For most any type of pest, you can visit an online pest control supplier for access to professional strength products to treat almost any home pest that you may find.
Monday, November 21, 2011
Mother D - Diatomaceous Earth! Effective and Earth Friendly!
Diatoms are harmless against humans and pets and are completely natural.
MotherEarth D is made of the highest-quality diatomaceous earth, lasts virtually forever if left untouched and provides long-lasting control of insect pests.
Mother Earth D should not be the only product used in the fight against bed bugs as it does not kill quick enough. For best results, use a contact kill such as Sterifab or Bedlam in addition to the dust product.
MotherEarth D consists of 100% diatomaceous earth which is the fossilized skeletal remains of single celled phytoplankton commonly referred to as diatoms. It works by dehydrating insects through a desiccating action. The absorptive properties of the fossilized cell-walls easily remove the cuticle's outer waxy layer. This results in the loss of an insect's ability to maintain proper fluid levels-ultimately leading to death. Unlike boric acid dusts that work best when ingested, MotherEarth D only requires contact with the insect to be effective.
Mother Earth D Features:
Highly absorptive desiccant dust
100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth
Long lasting dust provides continuous protection from pests
Easily covers cracks, crevices, and voids
Mined straight from Mother Earth
How do I use Mother D?
INDOOR USE
Insects ANTS, COCKROACHES, EARWIGS, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS: Using a hand duster, apply lightly in dry areas where crawling insect pests are found or may hide, including cracks and crevices, along baseboards, around sinks, cabinets, refrigerators and stoves and in attics and basements. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control.
FLEAS: To control fleas infesting pet areas, thoroughly treat floor and bedding in and around pet's sleeping quarters. Treat surrounding cracks and crevices, baseboards, furniture, carpeting and wherever fleas are suspected. Apply a thin coat of dust to rugs and carpets. Rake (not sweep) nap back and forth, causing dust to enter rug or carpet. Let product sit overnight. Repeat application as necessary and vacuum every 3 - 4 days for effective flea control.
MotherEarth D will kill fleas and help deodorize carpet or rug.
OUTDOOR USE
ANTS, EARWIGS, MITES, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS: Using a hand duster or other equipment suitable for application of dusts, dust lightly in areas where insects are found such as windowsills and door frames, around foundations and along ant trails. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control. Repeat treatment in problem areas as necessary for control.
Mother Earth D Features:
Highly absorptive desiccant dust
100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth
Long lasting dust provides continuous protection from pests
Easily covers cracks, crevices, and voids
MotherEarth D is made of the highest-quality diatomaceous earth, lasts virtually forever if left untouched and provides long-lasting control of insect pests.
Mother Earth D should not be the only product used in the fight against bed bugs as it does not kill quick enough. For best results, use a contact kill such as Sterifab or Bedlam in addition to the dust product.
MotherEarth D consists of 100% diatomaceous earth which is the fossilized skeletal remains of single celled phytoplankton commonly referred to as diatoms. It works by dehydrating insects through a desiccating action. The absorptive properties of the fossilized cell-walls easily remove the cuticle's outer waxy layer. This results in the loss of an insect's ability to maintain proper fluid levels-ultimately leading to death. Unlike boric acid dusts that work best when ingested, MotherEarth D only requires contact with the insect to be effective.
Mother Earth D Features:
Highly absorptive desiccant dust
100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth
Long lasting dust provides continuous protection from pests
Easily covers cracks, crevices, and voids
Mined straight from Mother Earth
How do I use Mother D?
INDOOR USE
Insects ANTS, COCKROACHES, EARWIGS, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS: Using a hand duster, apply lightly in dry areas where crawling insect pests are found or may hide, including cracks and crevices, along baseboards, around sinks, cabinets, refrigerators and stoves and in attics and basements. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control.
FLEAS: To control fleas infesting pet areas, thoroughly treat floor and bedding in and around pet's sleeping quarters. Treat surrounding cracks and crevices, baseboards, furniture, carpeting and wherever fleas are suspected. Apply a thin coat of dust to rugs and carpets. Rake (not sweep) nap back and forth, causing dust to enter rug or carpet. Let product sit overnight. Repeat application as necessary and vacuum every 3 - 4 days for effective flea control.
MotherEarth D will kill fleas and help deodorize carpet or rug.
OUTDOOR USE
ANTS, EARWIGS, MITES, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS: Using a hand duster or other equipment suitable for application of dusts, dust lightly in areas where insects are found such as windowsills and door frames, around foundations and along ant trails. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control. Repeat treatment in problem areas as necessary for control.
Mother Earth D Features:
Highly absorptive desiccant dust
100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth
Long lasting dust provides continuous protection from pests
Easily covers cracks, crevices, and voids
Things to Consider When Battling Pest Allergens
Asthma and allergy symptoms are on the move, and they are moving up in numbers and not down. While no one has a specific answer as to why this is happening, it is. Roach saliva, bodies, and droppings are an asthma and allergy trigger for many Americans. Rodent urine, hair, and droppings are another big concern for pest allergy sufferers. If any of these pest allergens are a trigger for you or someone in your family, you have to take action to reduce your exposure. There are a few things that you will need to consider when attempting to remove all pest allergens from your environment.
First off, you need to start where you live. Make certain that you have removed all allergen sources from your residential environment. If you live in a detached, single family house, this will be much more manageable. You can refer to our previous article on how to create an IPM for your home. But, if you live in a duplex, or multi-unit housing complex, the difficulty of task at hand has just increased tenfold. If you are having serious infestation issues with roaches or rodents and treat your unit in isolation, the allergen pests may just move away from your home until the pesticide wears off, and then return when your neighbor treats his home. It might take more work, but it is imperative that you contact the housing manager, alert them of the situation, and discuss if you can organize a “pest control day” where each of the housing units are treated on the same day. Also, if you housing manager enlists a pest control company to handles these issues, it might be worth asking if they are rotating unit treatment. This can be a serious problem, and contribute to ongoing pest infestation. You have a right to a clean environment free from allergen pests. Ensure that you are doing all the necessary steps regarding sanitation and prevention, but if actual chemical treatments are required, then the whole complex should be involved.
Next, if your home environment is cleared and cleaned of all allergen pests and you continue to have severe allergic symptoms, you must consider the other buildings that you spend numerous hours in. For our children, that is school and for adults, it is our work environment. These might be uncomfortable conversations to have, but if you feel that these areas are the source of ongoing asthma or allergy reactions, you should investigate it further. Contact your employments building maintenance to know the IPM protocol that is being enacted for the agency (after you’ve cleared it with your direct supervisor of course.) Schedule a meeting to discuss concerns about school buildings with the superintendent and/or their assistants. More than likely, your child is not the only one who is being affected. A quick look at the number of children with these types of allergies confirms that fact.
Remember, not only do the pests need to be exterminated, the whole environment needs to be cleaned and any feces, bodies, or urine must be sanitized and cleaned or they will continue to act as allergens.
Many pests like ants or flies can certainly be annoying, but when pests affect our health and quality of life, it’s no laughing matter.
First off, you need to start where you live. Make certain that you have removed all allergen sources from your residential environment. If you live in a detached, single family house, this will be much more manageable. You can refer to our previous article on how to create an IPM for your home. But, if you live in a duplex, or multi-unit housing complex, the difficulty of task at hand has just increased tenfold. If you are having serious infestation issues with roaches or rodents and treat your unit in isolation, the allergen pests may just move away from your home until the pesticide wears off, and then return when your neighbor treats his home. It might take more work, but it is imperative that you contact the housing manager, alert them of the situation, and discuss if you can organize a “pest control day” where each of the housing units are treated on the same day. Also, if you housing manager enlists a pest control company to handles these issues, it might be worth asking if they are rotating unit treatment. This can be a serious problem, and contribute to ongoing pest infestation. You have a right to a clean environment free from allergen pests. Ensure that you are doing all the necessary steps regarding sanitation and prevention, but if actual chemical treatments are required, then the whole complex should be involved.
Next, if your home environment is cleared and cleaned of all allergen pests and you continue to have severe allergic symptoms, you must consider the other buildings that you spend numerous hours in. For our children, that is school and for adults, it is our work environment. These might be uncomfortable conversations to have, but if you feel that these areas are the source of ongoing asthma or allergy reactions, you should investigate it further. Contact your employments building maintenance to know the IPM protocol that is being enacted for the agency (after you’ve cleared it with your direct supervisor of course.) Schedule a meeting to discuss concerns about school buildings with the superintendent and/or their assistants. More than likely, your child is not the only one who is being affected. A quick look at the number of children with these types of allergies confirms that fact.
Remember, not only do the pests need to be exterminated, the whole environment needs to be cleaned and any feces, bodies, or urine must be sanitized and cleaned or they will continue to act as allergens.
Many pests like ants or flies can certainly be annoying, but when pests affect our health and quality of life, it’s no laughing matter.
Friday, November 18, 2011
What Fleas Can Mean for Your Pets
Fleas can be a recurring nuisance to homeowners, but fleas can be more than annoying to your pet. Pets can develop serious conditions spurred by fleas in their living environment. In this article, we discuss how fleas can affect your pets, and the importance of keeping your home and pet flea free.
Fleas have a number of different stages of their life cycle which can make them hard to identify and treat; egg, larva, pupa, and adult. They can remain dormant for months, laying in wait for a warm blooded host to pass by. The most common household flea is the cat flea, but they don’t mind living on your dog as well.
Fleas can be carriers of dog tape worms, an intestinal parasite. The parasite can live in the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats, and sometimes humans. The tapeworms can have up to 200 body segments and grow to a foot in length. These intestinal parasites can be identified by inspecting the anus and the feces of the animal. The body segments of the tape worm will often detach from the main body and be expelled this way. They are opaque white or pinkish colored when fresh, or yellow or off white if they are dried. The newly expelled segments will wriggle and stretch and be easily identified. Once they are dry, the sacs take on the shape of rice. The sacs contain eggs, and frequently can be found attached to the hairs around the anus of the animal.
It is these sacs that are shed onto bedding or the animal’s environment and then ingested by fleas. The flea is then eaten by an animal, often times during grooming. The tape worm then matures into the adult tape worm, and the cycle begins again. Occasionally, these infected fleas have been ingested by small children. If left untreated, tape worms cause debilitation, weight loss and stomach irritation for your pet. If you don’t kill the fleas that are infected within your pets environment, the cycle will continue indefinitely.
Another serious pet problem caused by fleas is flea allergies. Pets that are allergic to fleas will often suffer lesions, loss of hair, thickening of the skin, and dermatitis. The allergic reaction is caused when the animal is infected by the saliva of the flea during feeding. The allergic pet will be very uncomfortable and itchy. The ensuing scratching by the pet is what often causes lesions. If your pet is allergic to fleas, look for hair loss often times around the tail and back area, raised, reddened and crusted skin, or pimple like bumps. There are test available from your veterinarian to rule out other possible allergens.
Fleas are not just aggravating for your pet, they can cause serious health conditions that significantly reduce your pet’s quality of life. There are numerous internal and topical treatments available for your pet, but it is necessary to also treat your home environment to stop the cycle of fleas. Due to the life cycle of fleas, treatment steps should be repeated within 14 days to kill fleas in each of their life cycles. Visit our other articles concerning home treatment for fleas.
Fleas have a number of different stages of their life cycle which can make them hard to identify and treat; egg, larva, pupa, and adult. They can remain dormant for months, laying in wait for a warm blooded host to pass by. The most common household flea is the cat flea, but they don’t mind living on your dog as well.
Fleas can be carriers of dog tape worms, an intestinal parasite. The parasite can live in the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats, and sometimes humans. The tapeworms can have up to 200 body segments and grow to a foot in length. These intestinal parasites can be identified by inspecting the anus and the feces of the animal. The body segments of the tape worm will often detach from the main body and be expelled this way. They are opaque white or pinkish colored when fresh, or yellow or off white if they are dried. The newly expelled segments will wriggle and stretch and be easily identified. Once they are dry, the sacs take on the shape of rice. The sacs contain eggs, and frequently can be found attached to the hairs around the anus of the animal.
It is these sacs that are shed onto bedding or the animal’s environment and then ingested by fleas. The flea is then eaten by an animal, often times during grooming. The tape worm then matures into the adult tape worm, and the cycle begins again. Occasionally, these infected fleas have been ingested by small children. If left untreated, tape worms cause debilitation, weight loss and stomach irritation for your pet. If you don’t kill the fleas that are infected within your pets environment, the cycle will continue indefinitely.
Another serious pet problem caused by fleas is flea allergies. Pets that are allergic to fleas will often suffer lesions, loss of hair, thickening of the skin, and dermatitis. The allergic reaction is caused when the animal is infected by the saliva of the flea during feeding. The allergic pet will be very uncomfortable and itchy. The ensuing scratching by the pet is what often causes lesions. If your pet is allergic to fleas, look for hair loss often times around the tail and back area, raised, reddened and crusted skin, or pimple like bumps. There are test available from your veterinarian to rule out other possible allergens.
Fleas are not just aggravating for your pet, they can cause serious health conditions that significantly reduce your pet’s quality of life. There are numerous internal and topical treatments available for your pet, but it is necessary to also treat your home environment to stop the cycle of fleas. Due to the life cycle of fleas, treatment steps should be repeated within 14 days to kill fleas in each of their life cycles. Visit our other articles concerning home treatment for fleas.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Green Pest Control Products at ePestSolutions!
Epestsolutions supplies organic, green, and natural pest control products (baits or insecticides) to control almost every type of pest including spiders, ants, roaches, mosquitoes, fleas and flies. We provide aerosols, dusts, granules, and bait formulations for the organic do it yourselfer .
Epestsolutions is proud to offer a full line of natural, organic and eco-friendly products in different formulations that can be used to treat almost any pest. Whether roach, ant, spider control, or any other pest is your objective, epestsolutions has the green product for you. All of our organic pest control products are EPA registered, and many are National Organic Program (NOP) compliant. In a world where going Green and Organic is used in every sentence we can help you stay earth friendly while still controlling ants, flies, fleas, ants, roaches, mosquitoes, and spiders and organic termite products. Rid your home of insects and pests naturally. Products include pest control sprays, baits, dusts, granules, and concentrates. Active ingredients may include pyrethrin, boric acid, pyrethrum, silica gel, diatomaceous earth, d-limonene, orthoboric acid and natural plant extracts.
Epestsolutions also offers the complete pest control product line of Ecosmart Technologies. These broad spectrum pest control products provide quick knockdown, low toxicity and environmental impact, all while using natural plant extracts which are natural defenses against insects. Ecosmart has products for fly control, wasp and hornet control, roach control, ant control, spider control, and many more pests.
Organic pest control dust formulations are great for controlling bees, wasps, roaches, spiders, earwigs and other crawling insects.
Epestsolutons Organic pest control granule formulation is a great broadcast granule for the yard to control ants, roaches, spiders, flies, fleas, ticks and many other unwanted pests.
Epestsolutions is proud to offer a full line of natural, organic and eco-friendly products in different formulations that can be used to treat almost any pest. Whether roach, ant, spider control, or any other pest is your objective, epestsolutions has the green product for you. All of our organic pest control products are EPA registered, and many are National Organic Program (NOP) compliant. In a world where going Green and Organic is used in every sentence we can help you stay earth friendly while still controlling ants, flies, fleas, ants, roaches, mosquitoes, and spiders and organic termite products. Rid your home of insects and pests naturally. Products include pest control sprays, baits, dusts, granules, and concentrates. Active ingredients may include pyrethrin, boric acid, pyrethrum, silica gel, diatomaceous earth, d-limonene, orthoboric acid and natural plant extracts.
Epestsolutions also offers the complete pest control product line of Ecosmart Technologies. These broad spectrum pest control products provide quick knockdown, low toxicity and environmental impact, all while using natural plant extracts which are natural defenses against insects. Ecosmart has products for fly control, wasp and hornet control, roach control, ant control, spider control, and many more pests.
Organic pest control dust formulations are great for controlling bees, wasps, roaches, spiders, earwigs and other crawling insects.
Epestsolutons Organic pest control granule formulation is a great broadcast granule for the yard to control ants, roaches, spiders, flies, fleas, ticks and many other unwanted pests.
Happy Holidays from the Staff at ePestSolutions!
Personalize funny videos and birthday eCards at JibJab!
Monday, November 14, 2011
How Dusts Kill Pests
Dusts are a useful tool in the tool kit of the do it yourself pest controller. In this article, we discuss insect biology and how dusts have used that insect biology to our advantage. Dusts have been used for ages in pest control, before there was anything called “pest control”. Animals often ‘dust’ themselves to help minimize parasites. We certainly didn’t invent ‘dusts’ during our lifetime, but hopefully we can begin to utilize them better in our home pest control regimen.
So exactly, how do dusts kill insects?
Well, there are a few ways that dusts can kill insects. Desiccants dusts are used as “drying agents” to the insects. One type of dust acts as tiny sand paper, and rubs the waxy coating from the insects as they walk over the dusts. Some dusts act as a sponge, and absorb the ultra thin lipid layer from the insect. Neither of these actions bodes well for the insect. Some dusts also include chemicals specially formulated to kill insects within the dusts themselves. The desiccant action of the dust makes the insect more readily susceptible to the compound in the dusting agent.
Dusts are readily available over the counter to the do it yourself pest controller. Online pest control suppliers can even ship them quickly to your door. But there are numerous types of dusts on the market, and you should investigate which one is right for your situation.
Diatomaceous earth is finely ground fossils that have little known toxicity to us or our environment. It can be used indoors or out and is dreaded by a long list of pests. DE will kill most anything that crawls through it. If you do use it outdoors, remember that it has to be reapplied after a rain, or heavy watering.
Dusts can be applied using pressurized cans or hand dusters. Dusts are often applied to base boards, cracks, crevices, under sinks, cabinets, and the folds and edges of furniture. Depending if you are using a insecticide dust or not, you need to pay attention to the labeling and where it may be used. If it contains an insecticide, you may not want to use it in any area that pets are children have access too. Also, although furniture may be treated, it will have to be vacuumed within a certain time frame after application. So be sure to check the rating on whichever product you chose to go with.
Dusts will not immediately kill the pests, but work more gradually over time. If you need to kill pests right away, use the dusts in conjunction with a spray insecticide that will kill the visible pests, and apply the dust to continue to reach pests that you did not have access to. Dusts that do not get wet can retain their potency for months or years when applied into wall or cabinet voids. This factor alone makes investigating dusts for the do it yourself pest controller well worth the effort.
So exactly, how do dusts kill insects?
Well, there are a few ways that dusts can kill insects. Desiccants dusts are used as “drying agents” to the insects. One type of dust acts as tiny sand paper, and rubs the waxy coating from the insects as they walk over the dusts. Some dusts act as a sponge, and absorb the ultra thin lipid layer from the insect. Neither of these actions bodes well for the insect. Some dusts also include chemicals specially formulated to kill insects within the dusts themselves. The desiccant action of the dust makes the insect more readily susceptible to the compound in the dusting agent.
Dusts are readily available over the counter to the do it yourself pest controller. Online pest control suppliers can even ship them quickly to your door. But there are numerous types of dusts on the market, and you should investigate which one is right for your situation.
Diatomaceous earth is finely ground fossils that have little known toxicity to us or our environment. It can be used indoors or out and is dreaded by a long list of pests. DE will kill most anything that crawls through it. If you do use it outdoors, remember that it has to be reapplied after a rain, or heavy watering.
Dusts can be applied using pressurized cans or hand dusters. Dusts are often applied to base boards, cracks, crevices, under sinks, cabinets, and the folds and edges of furniture. Depending if you are using a insecticide dust or not, you need to pay attention to the labeling and where it may be used. If it contains an insecticide, you may not want to use it in any area that pets are children have access too. Also, although furniture may be treated, it will have to be vacuumed within a certain time frame after application. So be sure to check the rating on whichever product you chose to go with.
Dusts will not immediately kill the pests, but work more gradually over time. If you need to kill pests right away, use the dusts in conjunction with a spray insecticide that will kill the visible pests, and apply the dust to continue to reach pests that you did not have access to. Dusts that do not get wet can retain their potency for months or years when applied into wall or cabinet voids. This factor alone makes investigating dusts for the do it yourself pest controller well worth the effort.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Friday, November 11, 2011
Interesting Study About Dusts and Bed Bugs
Dusts can often be overlooked in a pest control regimen because sprays seem to give immediate results. A closer look at recent research studies point to insecticide dusts as a bed bug solution with residual results.
Romero, Potter, and Haynes of the University of Kentucky conducted a research project using four different bed bug populations to test the effects of various ‘dusts’ on those populations. Two of the populations were extremely pyrethroid resistant, one was moderately resistant, and one population had has no previous exposure to insecticides. Five different dusts were used on all bed bug populations and results were recorded concerning mortality and the length of time associated with each. The dusts that were utilized for the study two pyrethroid based dusts and three desiccant dusts. The desiccant dusts work by either abrasive qualities similar to sand paper. They are able to remove the protective waxy coating of an insect as it crawls over the particles. The other way that it works is by ‘absorbing’ the thin lipid layer on insects. Delta Dust and Tempo were used as the pyrethroid based dusts, and Drione, Mother Earth D, and NIC 325 were used as the desiccant dusts.
Results:
The study found that in 24 hours, Tempo dust killed 100 percent of the bed bugs from all four of the populations. Drione took 72 hours to work, but also resulted in killing 100 percent of the bed bugs from all four populations. Delta dust resulted in up to two weeks to kill 100 percent of the bed bugs from all of the resistant strains. MotherEarth D took four days to kill over 90 percent of the bed bugs, and ten days to kill all strains at 100 percent. NIC 325 showed the lowest success, with only 50 percent of bed bugs killed after 13 days of exposure.
The Results:
The most promising result of the study indicate that pyrethroid resistance may be overcome with the use of dusts. This characteristic may be the weak link in bed bug pyrethroid resistance that can tip the scale towards regained control over the bed bug epidemic. There is not a definite explanation for why this combination is effective, but it is definitely a theory that is worth exploring.
What This Means to YOU:
To the Do It Yourself pest controller, it means that dusts should be investigated as an addition to any home bed bug management protocol. Dusts can be used around base boards in cracks and crevices, in the backs of nightstands and numerous other places that bed bugs choose to hide. Diatomaceous earth has an extremely low toxicity to humans and animals, and can be reapplied regularly without due concern to your families health, as a treatment and a preventative method. Either way, this research study definitely shows that dusts can play a vital role in home pest management.
Romero, Potter, and Haynes of the University of Kentucky conducted a research project using four different bed bug populations to test the effects of various ‘dusts’ on those populations. Two of the populations were extremely pyrethroid resistant, one was moderately resistant, and one population had has no previous exposure to insecticides. Five different dusts were used on all bed bug populations and results were recorded concerning mortality and the length of time associated with each. The dusts that were utilized for the study two pyrethroid based dusts and three desiccant dusts. The desiccant dusts work by either abrasive qualities similar to sand paper. They are able to remove the protective waxy coating of an insect as it crawls over the particles. The other way that it works is by ‘absorbing’ the thin lipid layer on insects. Delta Dust and Tempo were used as the pyrethroid based dusts, and Drione, Mother Earth D, and NIC 325 were used as the desiccant dusts.
Results:
The study found that in 24 hours, Tempo dust killed 100 percent of the bed bugs from all four of the populations. Drione took 72 hours to work, but also resulted in killing 100 percent of the bed bugs from all four populations. Delta dust resulted in up to two weeks to kill 100 percent of the bed bugs from all of the resistant strains. MotherEarth D took four days to kill over 90 percent of the bed bugs, and ten days to kill all strains at 100 percent. NIC 325 showed the lowest success, with only 50 percent of bed bugs killed after 13 days of exposure.
The Results:
The most promising result of the study indicate that pyrethroid resistance may be overcome with the use of dusts. This characteristic may be the weak link in bed bug pyrethroid resistance that can tip the scale towards regained control over the bed bug epidemic. There is not a definite explanation for why this combination is effective, but it is definitely a theory that is worth exploring.
What This Means to YOU:
To the Do It Yourself pest controller, it means that dusts should be investigated as an addition to any home bed bug management protocol. Dusts can be used around base boards in cracks and crevices, in the backs of nightstands and numerous other places that bed bugs choose to hide. Diatomaceous earth has an extremely low toxicity to humans and animals, and can be reapplied regularly without due concern to your families health, as a treatment and a preventative method. Either way, this research study definitely shows that dusts can play a vital role in home pest management.
Thursday, November 10, 2011
How to Control Pest Allergens
Allergies, asthma, and their symptoms can be an unrelenting problem for many Americans. Often times the allergens exist within our home environment, making symptoms even more difficult to control. In this article, we will discuss common pests that act as allergens, and ways to minimize them in your home.
23 to 60 percent of children with asthma are shown to have increased symptoms when exposed to cockroach saliva, feces and cockroach bodies. In one study, 35 percent of inner city children were allergic to dust mites. Proteins in rodent urine can become airborne and exacerbate allergy symptoms. Rodent droppings can cause reactions as well. There is actually a syndrome called ‘sick building syndrome’, due to the reactions caused by high levels of the aforementioned allergens. With the amount of time that we spend inside of our home, it is ever more important that we make sure to remove as many of these possible allergens as we can.
The best way to remove these pest allergens is to use an IPM, or integrated pest management, protocol. All that means is that we want to address all the factors that are allowing these pests to flourish in our environment, and not just rely on chemical means.
Questions you should ask yourself to create your own personal IPM protocol:
1) Environmental:
a. Are you inadvertently attracting pests into your home with readily available food sources?
b. Is your landscaping well managed and not touching your home?
c. Does your home have adequate ventilation and moisture control?
d. Are you trash bins placed away from the home and sealed?
2) Sanitation:
a. Do you have excessive clutter, creating safe areas for pests to hide?
b. Have you sealed all entry points: vents, cracks around doors and window, places that wiring enters the home? You can use expandable sealant foams, copper mesh, and silicone gels are good ways to seal all of those up.
c. Do you keep food sealed, cabinets and counters clean?
d. Do you take your trash out regularly? (no over night stays)
3) Non-chemical treatments:
a. Sticky traps and snap traps can be placed in areas that are out of reach for children and pets.
b. Regularly vacuum corners, baseboards, furniture, drapes, etc. to remove possible pests/eggs/droppings. Be sure to immediately empty the canister contents into a bag that can be sealed and place it in the trash bin.
c. Use repellants to keep the pests from staying inside your home even if they make it into your home.
d. Use heat/steam to kill mites, pests, and sanitize your fabric or upholstered items.
e. Ultrasound, predators, parasites, and lighting are other non chemical options available.
4) Chemical means of control: This includes Insecticides, rodenticides, baits, and insect growth regulators. Only use these means according to labeled directions.
23 to 60 percent of children with asthma are shown to have increased symptoms when exposed to cockroach saliva, feces and cockroach bodies. In one study, 35 percent of inner city children were allergic to dust mites. Proteins in rodent urine can become airborne and exacerbate allergy symptoms. Rodent droppings can cause reactions as well. There is actually a syndrome called ‘sick building syndrome’, due to the reactions caused by high levels of the aforementioned allergens. With the amount of time that we spend inside of our home, it is ever more important that we make sure to remove as many of these possible allergens as we can.
The best way to remove these pest allergens is to use an IPM, or integrated pest management, protocol. All that means is that we want to address all the factors that are allowing these pests to flourish in our environment, and not just rely on chemical means.
Questions you should ask yourself to create your own personal IPM protocol:
1) Environmental:
a. Are you inadvertently attracting pests into your home with readily available food sources?
b. Is your landscaping well managed and not touching your home?
c. Does your home have adequate ventilation and moisture control?
d. Are you trash bins placed away from the home and sealed?
2) Sanitation:
a. Do you have excessive clutter, creating safe areas for pests to hide?
b. Have you sealed all entry points: vents, cracks around doors and window, places that wiring enters the home? You can use expandable sealant foams, copper mesh, and silicone gels are good ways to seal all of those up.
c. Do you keep food sealed, cabinets and counters clean?
d. Do you take your trash out regularly? (no over night stays)
3) Non-chemical treatments:
a. Sticky traps and snap traps can be placed in areas that are out of reach for children and pets.
b. Regularly vacuum corners, baseboards, furniture, drapes, etc. to remove possible pests/eggs/droppings. Be sure to immediately empty the canister contents into a bag that can be sealed and place it in the trash bin.
c. Use repellants to keep the pests from staying inside your home even if they make it into your home.
d. Use heat/steam to kill mites, pests, and sanitize your fabric or upholstered items.
e. Ultrasound, predators, parasites, and lighting are other non chemical options available.
4) Chemical means of control: This includes Insecticides, rodenticides, baits, and insect growth regulators. Only use these means according to labeled directions.
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Friday, November 4, 2011
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
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