Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Fly Control Solutions

Flies can be very difficult to get control of. Please refer to the following recommendations to achieve desired level of fly control.

  • Remove potential breeding sites on the outside

  • Use exclusion techniques to prevent flies from entering inside

  • Eliminate potential breeding sites on the inside

  • Maintain a moderate level of sanitation


Concentrating on these steps will help fly populations be greatly reduced, and you will be well on your way to controlling your fly population.


Areas of Concern


Solutions

Reduce outside breeding sites



Dumpsters

Make sure that garbage cans or dumpsters have tight fitting lids; Pressure wash periodically and treat with a residual insecticide

Debris

Don't let organic material accumulate or rot

Outside Trash Receptacles

Remove garbage at least 2 times per week

Landscaping Areas

Weeds & old clippings removed, good drainage


Prevent flies from entering



Entrances

Treat with a residual insecticide to kill flies where they land; Use of air-curtains; Time released pyrethrin spray; Tightly seal doors and windows; Maintain screens; Keep trash cans as far away from door as possible

Garbage and Garbage Cans

Garbage should be removed frequently; Keep far away from entry points

Processing and Prep Equipment

Keep exposed food covered

Dishwashing Areas

Keep clean; Prevent accumulation of food particles

Floor Areas Under Counters

Try to keep debris picked up off floor and out of crevices and out from under appliances

Cabinets and equipment

Can accumulate debris; Keep Clean

Floor Drains and Ceiling Vents

Do not let floor drains stand in water; keep ceiling vents screened properly; Commercial Kitchens should make sure that floor drains are screened and grease pits are emptied and cleaned at least 1 time per month.

Cleaning Equipment

Brooms and mops should be thoroughly and hung upside down

Food Storage Areas

Kept Clean and free from rotting or fermenting material; Keep material in proper storage containers

Animal carcasses

Should be disposed of promptly; Placed in a air tight bag if possible

Incoming Produce

Store in proper place as soon as possible

Monday, December 12, 2011

Large Animal Pest?! Trapping Suggestions....

The following tips should be used when preparing to live catch your nuisance animal.

Havahart® recommends that you contact the Humane Society, or the local or state game commission before setting a trap to determine the lawful method of releasing a captured wild or nuisance animal. Many species are protected by law in various states.

Following the instructions contained in the carton, you may want to test the trap and spring it a few times to make sure that it works properly. For example, spring it by touching the trip plate from each end, This should be done also after the trap has been set and camouflaged to make sure it works freely. If you feel the doors do not work fast enough, place small stones or other weights on top of the door. This will cause doors to drop faster.

When you receive the trap it will be bright and new. Therefore do not be discouraged in case you do not catch what you anticipated the first night or day. The effectiveness of Havahart® traps usually improve with age. Some animals do not mind a new trap while others do. So instead of setting the trap to catch the first animal to come along, bait the trap, or simply place it where you intend to set it and fasten the doors open by means of a stick or wire.

After a couple of days, when you notice the bait has been disturbed or taken, it is time to set the trap. Camouflaging the trap is an effective means to entice the animal. Place twigs and leaves all over the trap to remove a lot of the glare from the trap. You can even spray it with water and throw dirt on it to give it a conditioned look. Animals will not be discouraged from entering the trap by the smell of your handling the trap or from supposed machine/oil odors in the manufacturing process

Top Trapping Tips

Check traps often and be aware of the weather. Trapped animals should not be left out in the elements as they can die from prolonged exposure to heat and cold.

Check traps FREQUENTLY. Wild animals stress easily and may seriously injure themselves as they attempt to escape.

If you trap a no target animal you should contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator in your state for releasing advice.

Depending on the time of year, check to see if you have trapped a nursing mother, tip the trap over to see her belly. Babies will not survive without mother.

Traps should be washed, disinfected with a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts of water and let it remain on for 20 minutes), and thoroughly rinsed after each capture to stop the spread of any potential disease.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

No Harm, No Fowl, Bird Repellent at ePestSolutions!

PiGNX Bio-Repellent Products utilize Capsaicin (Hot Peppers) as the active ingredient.

Capsaicin works by irritating nerve-endings. Imagine the irritation one feels by eating hot chili peppers or by rubbing these peppers on the skin.

This is the same effect birds and animals feel when they encounter the Bio-Repellent products.

Capsaicin has been proven to repel thousands of pests for hundreds of years.

PiGNX
has finally developed the unique delivery system to make the Capsaicin Effective, Safe, Long-Lasting , Easy to Apply and Easy to Clean.

Bio-Repellent products must be applied in at least a ½ inch thick bead. Applications differ with the target pest but, with every pest, it is always best to apply a thick bead to ensure the target pest comes in contact with enough product to stick to it.

The other reason for this thick application is, with heavy infestations, the product can be carried away on the pest. Please read application instruction for each individual product.

What are Bio-Repellents?

Bio-Repellents are a revolutionary new method of controlling pests that use New Technology Food-Grade ingredients along with old-world active ingredients to repel pests, rather than harming them.

How Do They Work?


PiGNX Bio-Repellent Products
utilize Capsaicin (Hot Peppers) as the active ingredient. Capsaicin works by irritating nerve-endings. Imagine the irritation one feels by eating hot chili peppers or by rubbing these peppers on the skin. This is the same effect birds and animals feel when they encounter our Bio-Repellent products.

Our Bio-Repellent products are contact repellents and as such must come in direct contact with the target pest. The products are carried in an amazing Thickened Food-Grade Mineral Oil which is safe enough to eat and will not harm the environment.

Capsaicin has been proven to repel thousands of pests for hundreds of years. The problem has never been with the Capsaicin, the problem has always been the lack of an effective delivery method. PiGNX has finally developed the unique delivery system to make the Capsaicin Effective, Safe, Long-Lasting and Profitable.

How are They Applied?


Bio-Repellent products must be applied in at least a ½ inch thick bead. Applications differ with the target pest but, with every pest, it is always best to apply a thick bead to ensure the target pest comes in contact with enough product to stick to it. The other reason for this thick application is, with heavy infestations, the product can be carried away on the pest. Please read application instruction for each individual product.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Kill Flies in 60 Seconds or Less!

Maxforce Fly Spot Bait Leaves Flies Dead in 60 Seconds or Less.

With Maxforce Fly Spot Bait, DIY pest conrollers can offer superior fly control in a variety of settings that previously could not be treated with fly baits, including commercial dining rooms, outside homes and around pet areas.





Maxforce Fly Spot Bait draws flies with powerful attractants combined with the active ingredient imidacloprid, which kills flies in 60 seconds or less. Maxforce Fly Spot Bait can be sprayed or painted onto surfaces to provide up to six weeks of control indoors and up to 14 days when applied around the outside of residences or commercial buildings. Additionally, the bait contains Bitrex*, a bittering agent designed to minimize ingestion by non-target animals.

“It was amazing,” says Larry Plecha, president of Biotec of New Mexico. “I actually started keeping track of the time that passed until I started to see results, and it was 60 seconds. The active ingredient, imidacloprid, provided really fast results. One hour later after I began the service, I counted dozens of dead flies.”

Maxforce Fly Spot Bait can be used alone or in combination with Maxforce Granular Fly Bait to enhance your fly control program.

Monday, December 5, 2011

TALSTAR at NEW Lower Price!




  1. Tough on ants and general household pests; easy on the household.

  2. Talstar Insecticide is Virtually Odorless

  3. Controls over 75 different pests and provides fast knockdown and long-lasting control

  4. This Insect Repellent creates a long-lasting barrier that insects won't penetrate for 45 days outdoors; 90 days indoors. (1/2 oz. per gal. inside; 1/2 oz per 1000 sq. ft. outside)

  5. Labeled for areas such as kitchens, restaurants, supermarkets and food processing plants.

  6. Label includes everything from pre- and post-construction termite treatment, indoor and outdoor pest control, turf and ornamental applications, and food-handling areas

  7. Best Termiticide For termite control, that means the longest average residual in the industry
    Controls ants, spiders, mosquitoes, cockroaches, ticks and fleas to pillbugs, chinch bugs, earwigs and millipedes and many other pests

  8. #1 Choice by Pro’s for Ant Control; #1 Choice by Pro’s for Broad-Spectrum Insect Control; #1 Pyrethroid for Termite Control Worldwide


For use on:

Ants, Roaches, flies, spiders, scorpions, and occasional invaders

NOW at LOWER PRICE at ePestSolutions.com!

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Facts About Ants

Ant Facts

More than 10,000 species may exist worldwide. Approximately 570 species occur in the United States and of these, fewer than 30 species may regularly infest homes and other buildings with only ten species considered major pests. Ants have succeeded in replacing other types of structural pests as the number one pest in homes in many parts of the United States. In Texas, the imported fire ant has been deemed by pest control companies as the number one structural pest. In the Pacific Northwest, carpenter ants are responsible for most homeowner calls to pest control operators.

All ant species member live in colonies with one to many queens, immature, numerous sterile female workers and occasionally males. The workers are wingless and characterized by elbowed antennae and the constricted first one or two segments of the abdomen.

Ants can be detrimental to human health; their presence under certain situations can pose a serious human health risk. In hospitals, health care facilities, food processing plants, food packaging plants and food preparation areas of various structures, the presence of ants should not be tolerated because of potential for disease transmission.

Ants frequently are annoying and sometimes dangerous because of their bites and or stings. Not all ants sting. In many ants, the sting has practically disappeared, but venom may be injected into a wound made from a bite. Many ants produce a toxin secreted by glands in the head which is deposited in the bite. The substance is called formic acid and is the source of the scientific name of the ants, Formicidae.

Ants commonly attack livestock. Workers of harvester and fire ants have been reported attacking and killing young pigs. There are also reports of fire ants attacking and killing chicks and newborn calves. Some species of the big-head ant are intermediate hosts of various poultry tapeworms.

Ants can damage crops and ornamental plants. The red imported fire ant is known to remove seeds from seed beds and feed on the seeds of corn, peanuts and beans. Workers of the red imported fire ant will chew on the roots, stems and leaves of plants. In some cases, seedlings are girdled and die.

Ants can spoil range land for grazing by building mounds and clearing sites for their nests. Harvester ants clear large areas of all vegetation about their nest structure. These ants have a potent sting which may further discourage grazing about their nests, Fire ants pose a special problem to harvest operations in hay fields as their large, hardened mounds are known to break harvesting equipment.

Enjoyment of parks and recreational areas where the fire ant is prevalent is often spoiled. Fire ants also show a fascination for electricity and have many reports of damage to electrical equipment. Carpenter ant workers will strip the insulation from cables, causing them to short.

Shade trees are damaged by Carpenter ants. Telephone poles are also not immune to ant attack.

Carpenter ants are the major group of ants that cause damage to wooden structures. These ants tunnel through wood but do not consume it for food as is the case with termites.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

DIY Home Pest Inspection

If you are planning on doing your own pest control, one thing that will improve your chances of keeping the pests out is doing a complete home inspection. In this article, we cover where and what the DIY pest controller should look for when doing a home pest inspection. Certain conditions give rise to pests entering and flourishing in your home, so what can you do to minimize your chances of inviting pests into your home? Inspect your home for signs and symptoms of pest activity.

In your kitchen, bath and laundry areas follow the techniques listed below:

Exposed Food: Do you have pet food, decorative arrangements, bowls of fruit, or any other items that are openly exposed and available to pests?

Leaks and Moisture: Washing machines, tub/showers, garbage disposal units and sink cabinets should be checked for signs of the tiniest leaks and moisture retention. Spaces beneath tubs/showers can also be an access point for pests, and should be treated if you are able to access them.

Entry points: Dryer vents, windows, screens, door ways, cable/utility entry points, attic accesses are all easy entry ways for pests if not properly sealed. Copper mesh , caulk, and expandable foam can be used to minimize entry access.

Potted Plants: Although lovely, potted plants can be a mini eco system for pests to hide and flourish. Don’t forget to inspect these when looking for pests in your home.

Pantry: Are your foods stored in sealed containers or has there been any spillage left on shelves?

Pet Bedding: Pets can be a host for fleas and ticks and their bedding areas need to be inspected for signs of activity.

Hearth: Check your fireplace area for signs of moisture leaks in walls or ceiling areas and be sure that your firewood isn’t importing or harboring pests.

Bedrooms: Be sure to look in corners, baseboards, bedding and behind dressers for signs of spiders, silverfish, bed bugs, and clothes moths. Drapes and wall hangings should also be vacuumed and inspected regularly. Fleas can hide in low hanging drapes as well.

These techniques should help you to pest proof your home but also give you an adequate inventory of pests that may already be there and require treatment. If you see signs of pests, these are pinpointed treatment areas, since they are places that pests like to hide.

For most any type of pest, you can visit an online pest control supplier for access to professional strength products to treat almost any home pest that you may find.

Monday, November 21, 2011

Mother D - Diatomaceous Earth! Effective and Earth Friendly!

Diatoms are harmless against humans and pets and are completely natural.

MotherEarth D is made of the highest-quality diatomaceous earth, lasts virtually forever if left untouched and provides long-lasting control of insect pests.

Mother Earth D should not be the only product used in the fight against bed bugs as it does not kill quick enough. For best results, use a contact kill such as Sterifab or Bedlam in addition to the dust product.

MotherEarth D consists of 100% diatomaceous earth which is the fossilized skeletal remains of single celled phytoplankton commonly referred to as diatoms. It works by dehydrating insects through a desiccating action. The absorptive properties of the fossilized cell-walls easily remove the cuticle's outer waxy layer. This results in the loss of an insect's ability to maintain proper fluid levels-ultimately leading to death. Unlike boric acid dusts that work best when ingested, MotherEarth D only requires contact with the insect to be effective.

Mother Earth D Features:

Highly absorptive desiccant dust
100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth
Long lasting dust provides continuous protection from pests
Easily covers cracks, crevices, and voids
Mined straight from Mother Earth

How do I use Mother D?


INDOOR USE

Insects ANTS, COCKROACHES, EARWIGS, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS: Using a hand duster, apply lightly in dry areas where crawling insect pests are found or may hide, including cracks and crevices, along baseboards, around sinks, cabinets, refrigerators and stoves and in attics and basements. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control.

FLEAS: To control fleas infesting pet areas, thoroughly treat floor and bedding in and around pet's sleeping quarters. Treat surrounding cracks and crevices, baseboards, furniture, carpeting and wherever fleas are suspected. Apply a thin coat of dust to rugs and carpets. Rake (not sweep) nap back and forth, causing dust to enter rug or carpet. Let product sit overnight. Repeat application as necessary and vacuum every 3 - 4 days for effective flea control.

MotherEarth D
will kill fleas and help deodorize carpet or rug.

OUTDOOR USE

ANTS, EARWIGS, MITES, SPIDERS AND OTHER CRAWLING INSECTS: Using a hand duster or other equipment suitable for application of dusts, dust lightly in areas where insects are found such as windowsills and door frames, around foundations and along ant trails. Direct contact with dry dust is required for effective control. Repeat treatment in problem areas as necessary for control.

Mother Earth D Features:

Highly absorptive desiccant dust
100% high purity freshwater diatomaceous earth
Long lasting dust provides continuous protection from pests
Easily covers cracks, crevices, and voids

Precor Flea Fogger at ePestSolutions!

Things to Consider When Battling Pest Allergens

Asthma and allergy symptoms are on the move, and they are moving up in numbers and not down. While no one has a specific answer as to why this is happening, it is. Roach saliva, bodies, and droppings are an asthma and allergy trigger for many Americans. Rodent urine, hair, and droppings are another big concern for pest allergy sufferers. If any of these pest allergens are a trigger for you or someone in your family, you have to take action to reduce your exposure. There are a few things that you will need to consider when attempting to remove all pest allergens from your environment.

First off, you need to start where you live. Make certain that you have removed all allergen sources from your residential environment. If you live in a detached, single family house, this will be much more manageable. You can refer to our previous article on how to create an IPM for your home. But, if you live in a duplex, or multi-unit housing complex, the difficulty of task at hand has just increased tenfold. If you are having serious infestation issues with roaches or rodents and treat your unit in isolation, the allergen pests may just move away from your home until the pesticide wears off, and then return when your neighbor treats his home. It might take more work, but it is imperative that you contact the housing manager, alert them of the situation, and discuss if you can organize a “pest control day” where each of the housing units are treated on the same day. Also, if you housing manager enlists a pest control company to handles these issues, it might be worth asking if they are rotating unit treatment. This can be a serious problem, and contribute to ongoing pest infestation. You have a right to a clean environment free from allergen pests. Ensure that you are doing all the necessary steps regarding sanitation and prevention, but if actual chemical treatments are required, then the whole complex should be involved.

Next, if your home environment is cleared and cleaned of all allergen pests and you continue to have severe allergic symptoms, you must consider the other buildings that you spend numerous hours in. For our children, that is school and for adults, it is our work environment. These might be uncomfortable conversations to have, but if you feel that these areas are the source of ongoing asthma or allergy reactions, you should investigate it further. Contact your employments building maintenance to know the IPM protocol that is being enacted for the agency (after you’ve cleared it with your direct supervisor of course.) Schedule a meeting to discuss concerns about school buildings with the superintendent and/or their assistants. More than likely, your child is not the only one who is being affected. A quick look at the number of children with these types of allergies confirms that fact.

Remember, not only do the pests need to be exterminated, the whole environment needs to be cleaned and any feces, bodies, or urine must be sanitized and cleaned or they will continue to act as allergens.

Many pests like ants or flies can certainly be annoying, but when pests affect our health and quality of life, it’s no laughing matter.

Friday, November 18, 2011

What Fleas Can Mean for Your Pets

Fleas can be a recurring nuisance to homeowners, but fleas can be more than annoying to your pet. Pets can develop serious conditions spurred by fleas in their living environment. In this article, we discuss how fleas can affect your pets, and the importance of keeping your home and pet flea free.

Fleas have a number of different stages of their life cycle which can make them hard to identify and treat; egg, larva, pupa, and adult. They can remain dormant for months, laying in wait for a warm blooded host to pass by. The most common household flea is the cat flea, but they don’t mind living on your dog as well.

Fleas can be carriers of dog tape worms, an intestinal parasite. The parasite can live in the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats, and sometimes humans. The tapeworms can have up to 200 body segments and grow to a foot in length. These intestinal parasites can be identified by inspecting the anus and the feces of the animal. The body segments of the tape worm will often detach from the main body and be expelled this way. They are opaque white or pinkish colored when fresh, or yellow or off white if they are dried. The newly expelled segments will wriggle and stretch and be easily identified. Once they are dry, the sacs take on the shape of rice. The sacs contain eggs, and frequently can be found attached to the hairs around the anus of the animal.

It is these sacs that are shed onto bedding or the animal’s environment and then ingested by fleas. The flea is then eaten by an animal, often times during grooming. The tape worm then matures into the adult tape worm, and the cycle begins again. Occasionally, these infected fleas have been ingested by small children. If left untreated, tape worms cause debilitation, weight loss and stomach irritation for your pet. If you don’t kill the fleas that are infected within your pets environment, the cycle will continue indefinitely.

Another serious pet problem caused by fleas is flea allergies. Pets that are allergic to fleas will often suffer lesions, loss of hair, thickening of the skin, and dermatitis. The allergic reaction is caused when the animal is infected by the saliva of the flea during feeding. The allergic pet will be very uncomfortable and itchy. The ensuing scratching by the pet is what often causes lesions. If your pet is allergic to fleas, look for hair loss often times around the tail and back area, raised, reddened and crusted skin, or pimple like bumps. There are test available from your veterinarian to rule out other possible allergens.

Fleas are not just aggravating for your pet, they can cause serious health conditions that significantly reduce your pet’s quality of life. There are numerous internal and topical treatments available for your pet, but it is necessary to also treat your home environment to stop the cycle of fleas. Due to the life cycle of fleas, treatment steps should be repeated within 14 days to kill fleas in each of their life cycles. Visit our other articles concerning home treatment for fleas.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Green Pest Control Products at ePestSolutions!

Epestsolutions supplies organic, green, and natural pest control products (baits or insecticides) to control almost every type of pest including spiders, ants, roaches, mosquitoes, fleas and flies. We provide aerosols, dusts, granules, and bait formulations for the organic do it yourselfer .

Epestsolutions is proud to offer a full line of natural, organic and eco-friendly products in different formulations that can be used to treat almost any pest. Whether roach, ant, spider control, or any other pest is your objective, epestsolutions has the  green product for you. All of our organic pest control products are EPA registered, and many are National Organic Program (NOP) compliant. In a world where going  Green and  Organic is used in every sentence we can help you stay earth friendly while still controlling ants, flies, fleas, ants, roaches, mosquitoes, and spiders and organic termite products. Rid your home of insects and pests naturally. Products include pest control sprays, baits, dusts, granules, and concentrates. Active ingredients may include pyrethrin, boric acid, pyrethrum, silica gel, diatomaceous earth, d-limonene, orthoboric acid and natural plant extracts.

Epestsolutions also offers the complete pest control product line of Ecosmart Technologies. These broad spectrum pest control products provide quick knockdown, low toxicity and environmental impact, all while using natural plant extracts which are natural defenses against insects. Ecosmart has products for fly control, wasp and hornet control, roach control, ant control, spider control, and many more pests.

Organic pest control dust formulations are great for controlling bees, wasps, roaches, spiders, earwigs and other crawling insects.

Epestsolutons Organic pest control granule formulation is a great broadcast granule for the yard to control ants, roaches, spiders, flies, fleas, ticks and many other unwanted pests.

Happy Holidays from the Staff at ePestSolutions!

Personalize funny videos and birthday eCards at JibJab!

Monday, November 14, 2011

How Dusts Kill Pests

Dusts are a useful tool in the tool kit of the do it yourself pest controller. In this article, we discuss insect biology and how dusts have used that insect biology to our advantage. Dusts have been used for ages in pest control, before there was anything called “pest control”. Animals often ‘dust’ themselves to help minimize parasites. We certainly didn’t invent ‘dusts’ during our lifetime, but hopefully we can begin to utilize them better in our home pest control regimen.

So exactly, how do dusts kill insects?
Well, there are a few ways that dusts can kill insects. Desiccants dusts are used as “drying agents” to the insects. One type of dust acts as tiny sand paper, and rubs the waxy coating from the insects as they walk over the dusts. Some dusts act as a sponge, and absorb the ultra thin lipid layer from the insect. Neither of these actions bodes well for the insect. Some dusts also include chemicals specially formulated to kill insects within the dusts themselves. The desiccant action of the dust makes the insect more readily susceptible to the compound in the dusting agent.
Dusts are readily available over the counter to the do it yourself pest controller. Online pest control suppliers can even ship them quickly to your door. But there are numerous types of dusts on the market, and you should investigate which one is right for your situation.
Diatomaceous earth is finely ground fossils that have little known toxicity to us or our environment. It can be used indoors or out and is dreaded by a long list of pests. DE will kill most anything that crawls through it. If you do use it outdoors, remember that it has to be reapplied after a rain, or heavy watering.
Dusts can be applied using pressurized cans or hand dusters. Dusts are often applied to base boards, cracks, crevices, under sinks, cabinets, and the folds and edges of furniture. Depending if you are using a insecticide dust or not, you need to pay attention to the labeling and where it may be used. If it contains an insecticide, you may not want to use it in any area that pets are children have access too. Also, although furniture may be treated, it will have to be vacuumed within a certain time frame after application. So be sure to check the rating on whichever product you chose to go with.
Dusts will not immediately kill the pests, but work more gradually over time. If you need to kill pests right away, use the dusts in conjunction with a spray insecticide that will kill the visible pests, and apply the dust to continue to reach pests that you did not have access to. Dusts that do not get wet can retain their potency for months or years when applied into wall or cabinet voids. This factor alone makes investigating dusts for the do it yourself pest controller well worth the effort.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Interesting Study About Dusts and Bed Bugs

Dusts can often be overlooked in a pest control regimen because sprays seem to give immediate results. A closer look at recent research studies point to insecticide dusts as a bed bug solution with residual results.
Romero, Potter, and Haynes of the University of Kentucky conducted a research project using four different bed bug populations to test the effects of various ‘dusts’ on those populations. Two of the populations were extremely pyrethroid resistant, one was moderately resistant, and one population had has no previous exposure to insecticides. Five different dusts were used on all bed bug populations and results were recorded concerning mortality and the length of time associated with each. The dusts that were utilized for the study two pyrethroid based dusts and three desiccant dusts. The desiccant dusts work by either abrasive qualities similar to sand paper. They are able to remove the protective waxy coating of an insect as it crawls over the particles. The other way that it works is by ‘absorbing’ the thin lipid layer on insects. Delta Dust and Tempo were used as the pyrethroid based dusts, and Drione, Mother Earth D, and NIC 325 were used as the desiccant dusts.

Results:
The study found that in 24 hours, Tempo dust killed 100 percent of the bed bugs from all four of the populations. Drione took 72 hours to work, but also resulted in killing 100 percent of the bed bugs from all four populations. Delta dust resulted in up to two weeks to kill 100 percent of the bed bugs from all of the resistant strains. MotherEarth D took four days to kill over 90 percent of the bed bugs, and ten days to kill all strains at 100 percent. NIC 325 showed the lowest success, with only 50 percent of bed bugs killed after 13 days of exposure.

The Results:
The most promising result of the study indicate that pyrethroid resistance may be overcome with the use of dusts. This characteristic may be the weak link in bed bug pyrethroid resistance that can tip the scale towards regained control over the bed bug epidemic. There is not a definite explanation for why this combination is effective, but it is definitely a theory that is worth exploring.

What This Means to YOU:
To the Do It Yourself pest controller, it means that dusts should be investigated as an addition to any home bed bug management protocol. Dusts can be used around base boards in cracks and crevices, in the backs of nightstands and numerous other places that bed bugs choose to hide. Diatomaceous earth has an extremely low toxicity to humans and animals, and can be reapplied regularly without due concern to your families health, as a treatment and a preventative method. Either way, this research study definitely shows that dusts can play a vital role in home pest management.

Thursday, November 10, 2011

How to Control Pest Allergens

Allergies, asthma, and their symptoms can be an unrelenting problem for many Americans. Often times the allergens exist within our home environment, making symptoms even more difficult to control. In this article, we will discuss common pests that act as allergens, and ways to minimize them in your home.

23 to 60 percent of children with asthma are shown to have increased symptoms when exposed to cockroach saliva, feces and cockroach bodies. In one study, 35 percent of inner city children were allergic to dust mites. Proteins in rodent urine can become airborne and exacerbate allergy symptoms. Rodent droppings can cause reactions as well. There is actually a syndrome called ‘sick building syndrome’, due to the reactions caused by high levels of the aforementioned allergens. With the amount of time that we spend inside of our home, it is ever more important that we make sure to remove as many of these possible allergens as we can.

The best way to remove these pest allergens is to use an IPM, or integrated pest management, protocol. All that means is that we want to address all the factors that are allowing these pests to flourish in our environment, and not just rely on chemical means.

Questions you should ask yourself to create your own personal IPM protocol:
1) Environmental:
a. Are you inadvertently attracting pests into your home with readily available food sources?
b. Is your landscaping well managed and not touching your home?
c. Does your home have adequate ventilation and moisture control?
d. Are you trash bins placed away from the home and sealed?

2) Sanitation:
a. Do you have excessive clutter, creating safe areas for pests to hide?
b. Have you sealed all entry points: vents, cracks around doors and window, places that wiring enters the home? You can use expandable sealant foams, copper mesh, and silicone gels are good ways to seal all of those up.
c. Do you keep food sealed, cabinets and counters clean?
d. Do you take your trash out regularly? (no over night stays)

3) Non-chemical treatments:
a. Sticky traps and snap traps can be placed in areas that are out of reach for children and pets.
b. Regularly vacuum corners, baseboards, furniture, drapes, etc. to remove possible pests/eggs/droppings. Be sure to immediately empty the canister contents into a bag that can be sealed and place it in the trash bin.
c. Use repellants to keep the pests from staying inside your home even if they make it into your home.
d. Use heat/steam to kill mites, pests, and sanitize your fabric or upholstered items.
e. Ultrasound, predators, parasites, and lighting are other non chemical options available.

4) Chemical means of control: This includes Insecticides, rodenticides, baits, and insect growth regulators. Only use these means according to labeled directions.

Monday, October 31, 2011

TEMPRID! What Can't It DO?!

Temprid SC (Suspension Concentrate Formulation) insecticide is an easy-to-use insect repellent and provides quick knockdown and long residual control of more than 50 pests. This high quality insect repellent combines the broad spectrum, fast-acting control of beta-cyfluthrin with the systemic residual control of imidacloprid to provide premium performance and efficacy.

Active Ingredient: Imidacloprid 21%, Beta-Cyfluthrin 10.5%

Target Pests: Ants (excluding Pharaoh's ants), Boxelder bugs, Carpenter ants, Carpet beetles, Centipedes, Clothes moths, Clover mites, Cluster fly, Cockroaches, Crickets, Darkling beetles, Dermestids, Earwigs, Elm leaf beetles, Fire ants, Firebrats, Fleas, Fruit flies, Gnats, Ground beetles, Hide beetles, Hornets, House flies, Leather beetles, Midges, Millipedes, Moths, Mosquitoes, Multicolored asian lady beetles, Phorid flies, Pill bugs, Scorpions, Sciarid flies (Fungus gnats), Silverfish, Sow bugs, Spiders (excluding Brown recluse spiders), Springtails, Ticks, Wasps, Yellow jackets

Friday, October 28, 2011

E-Z Clean Rodent Bait Stations

Safe and Simple Rodent Control at a Reasonable Price!


•Hard plastic rat bait station
•Place bait inside secure rod of rat station so rodent cannot remove the bait
•Prevents dogs or children from getting to the bait
•Can also hold a snap trap
•Special key prevents easy opening of rat station
•Adhere to concrete block to prevent removal

Check E-Z Clean at ePestSolutions.com today!

4.5 Stars on Kudzu!

See full Reviews HERE

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Roaches Might Survive Nuclear Explosion According to Mythbusters

Click HERE for full story.

But, NO WAY can they survive ePestSolutions ROACH KITS!

We have presriptive Roach Kits for your specific pest problem.

Visit ePestSolutions today to see which is right for you!

Monday, October 24, 2011

Mice: The Winter Invader


The cool air of fall and approaching winter can bring in unwanted pests, like mice, who are searching for a warm haven from the harsh weather. Before mice can make their way into your home, mouse proof your residence so that the only guests you have for the holidays are the two legged kind. In this article we review prevention techniques and treatment options if mice have already invaded.

• Even a hole the size of a dime, can allow mice access to your home. Be sure to seal any cracks and crevices around your home, and be sure to check your foundation and around pipes and utility wires
• Shrubs and trees that are near your home are an excellent invitation to mice and pests. Keep them neatly trimmed and with no branches touching the structure.
• Try using crushed rock around your foundation, since mice do not like to walk on uneven surfaces
• Don’t store boxes and other containers on the floor and use plastic bins with sealed lids, instead of card board or open topped units. If you have areas that aren’t frequently used, be sure to keep them neat and regularly inspected for signs of mouse
• As always, seal any leaks in and around your home so rodents do not have access to water
• Pet food should never be left out or in bags, they’re like a mouse buffet. Keep them tightly sealed in hard plastic or metal bins
Signs of mice infestations may include chewed electrical wires, gnaw marks on wood surfaces and droppings in your cupboards or pantries.

Treatment options for mice include:

Snap traps: Snap traps are the tried and true mechanics for your mouse control and elimination. Mouse snap traps have been used for centuries. The theory has not changed, but science behind the machine has continued to improve. With better technology and higher grade products mouse snap traps can and will work successfully on any number of mice.
Rodenticides: Rodenticides are pesticides that kill rodents and our modern rodenticides can be broken down into two broad group: anticoagulants and non-anticoagulants.
Exclusion Products: Making your house rodent proof is the process of denying mice entry into a building or home by improving the building integrity. This can be difficult with mice since they can enter in a space small as a pinky finger. Mouse exclusion is the best long term and cost effective method of rodent control, taking the time to do it right and thoroughly can save you lots of frustration down the line. One of the best mouse exclusion products is copper mesh. Copper mesh should be used when trying to prevent entry into a hole and opening. Rodents do not have the ability to chew or gnaw through the copper mesh fibers.
GlueTraps: Glue products can be tossed in the trash after use. Glue boards can be purchased scented and unscented and can be placed in the rats environment covered or uncovered. Glue traps can be placed in runways and use to trap rats and mice. They are easy to use, nontoxic and will get great results.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Delta Dust @ ePestSolutions.com!

The One and Only Water Proof Dust

DeltaDust® with DeltaGard® is the world's first and only 100% waterproof insecticide dust, so it works in the wet and damp places that insects love. Nothing short of running water will disturb it, making DeltaDust an ideal crack and crevice treatment. It's effective against a broad spectrum of insects at a wide range of labeled use sites, indoors and out, especially against fleas and ticks in rodent burrows, as well as around pet kennels and in zoos. Since its effect is not diminished by moisture, DeltaDust provides a residual of up to 8 months with a DeltaGard active ingredient concentration of just 0.05% — probably the lowest of any insecticide dust anywhere.

What's more, DeltaDust is odorless, and is an economical buy — a standard 1 lb. bottle covers about 2000 sq. ft.

What's Delta Dust Controls

Ants, Bees, Bedbugs, Boxelder bugs, Carpet beetles, Cockroaches (both resistant and non-resistant strains), Crickets, Fleas Firebrats, Termites, Carpenter ants, Carpenter bees, Centipedes, Cheese mites, Cigarette beetles, Dark meal worms, Drugstore beetles, Fire ants, Grain mites, Granary weevils, Ground beetles, Lesser grain borers, Merchant grain beetles, Millipedes, Redflour beetles, Rice weevils, Rusty grain beetles, Sawtoothed grain beetles, Scorpions, Silverfish, Slugs, Sowbugs, Spiders, Spider beetles, Ticks, Tobacco moths, Wasps, Webbing clothes moths, Yellow meal worms.

DELTADUST® Application Tips:

  • DeltaDust is a waterproof insecticide intended for application with a hand or power duster (Actisol® DPA or similar equipment), with a paint brush or by other suitable means, for hiding and runaway areas and other places where insects are found.

  • In living areas, apply in such a manner as to avoid depositions on exposed surfaces or introducing the material into the air. In the home, all food processing surfaces and utensils should be covered during treatment or thoroughly washed before use. Exposed food should be covered or removed.

  • To apply insecticide directly into cracks and crevices, use a bulbous duster or other suitable equipment. Apply lightly and uniformly to infested area. Pay particular attention to: cracks and crevices, service ducts, floors and ceilings, wall voids, around electrical and telephone fittings and equipment, around water and sewer pipes, under and behind cabinets, refrigerators and sinks, around windows and door frames, along baseboards, in attics and crawl spaces. The amount to be applied will vary with the site but should usually be in the range of 2-3 grams of DeltaDust per square yard (or 0.5 lbs per 1000 square feet).


Proper Dusting Tips:

  • When applying, the duster should be filled only halfway - no more than two-thirds full. This allows for adequate air space to create the desired air/dust mixture prior to application. If there is too much dust in the duster, clumps of dust on treated surfaces may result, leading to overapplication of the product and messy spills.

  • Between each squeeze, the duster should be shaken slightly to get dust floating inside the unit.

  • When applying dust into cracks and crevices and on surfaces, gently squeeze the duster to ensure the application of very thin layers of dust. When dusting correctly, you should barely be able to see the dust emerging from the tip of the duster.

  • Before relaxing your grip on the duster, pull it away from the surface or crack you are treating to prevent sucking up lint, moisture or debris. Small amounts of these items will eventually cause lumping and/or clogging of the duster.

  • Place several pebbles or small ball bearings in your duster to keep the dust agitated and ensure than any clumps are broken up prior to application. Also, always keep the screen inside the duster in place as this is designed to help maintain a fine dust consistency.

  • When treating around electrical outlets, use dusters fitted with plastic or fiberglass spouts, or place a small section of rubber hose or plastic tubing over the metal tip to avoid contacting electrical wires. These tubes will also enable you to reach around corners and beneath cabinet voids that would otherwise be impossible to treat.

  • Carry a small brush and a damp cloth. These can be used in the event that dust accidentally drifts out of cracks and crevices and onto non-target areas. Use the brush to push excess dust into cracks, and use the cloth to wipe up.

  • Do not apply dust to baseboards.

  • Apply dust carefully and judiciously so it does not travel to areas where it might represent a hazard. Prevent food contamination by not applying dust to where it could filter down onto food or food areas after it is applied. Also, be aware of any air currents that could transfer dust to containers or other objects, leading to food contamination.

  • If the applicator is to apply any kind of dust for extended periods of time, he or she should wear a respirator approved by the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH).

  • When using high-volume or high-pressure equipment to apply dust in attics or sub-floor crawl spaces, wear a NIOSH-approved respirator. Also, shut off fans, air conditioners, and hot-air heating equipment if necessary. If the dust is combustible, put out all flames and pilot lights, and shut down all spark-producing equipment in the treated area to avoid explosions.

  • When storing hand dusters in a service vehicle, place them in airtight containers or in zip-style plastic bags. Also, label each container as to the contents of the duster.

  • In general, do not place the tip of the duster in a moist location or allow the duster to sit in moist environments as it will absorb water and become clogged. Clogged dusters can be cleaned by scraping out the spout with a piece of stiff wire.

  • Always follow the label when using DeltaDust.


Contact us at http://www.epestsolutions.com/ to see if Delta Dust is right for you!

How to Keep the Occasional Pest Out!

Often times we find that the seasonal temperature and moisture changes may also bring with it, an insect pest that is not our usual house pest. In this article, we will discuss ways to minimize this occurrence and keep occasional pests out of doors. Examples of common types of ‘occasional’ pests are earwigs, centipedes, box elder bugs, crickets and lady bugs.
When conditions become unfavorable to their propagation out of doors, these insect home invaders will look for anyway possible to move into a better situation. Cracks in foundations, poorly sealed doorways, and poorly kept window screens can offer easy access to the insect invader. They may be searching for additional moisture or food sources, so it is important to keep moisture levels in your home low, and minimize any other insects that might be possible food for the occasional invader. It is necessary to seal as many insect entry points as possible.
The next step is to modify the habitat surrounding your home by minimizing plants, mulch and lighting directly around your home. You can extend gravel or rock beds to a distance of at least 12” around your home, and begin plant beds out from there. Use low wattage yellow bug lights or sodium vapor lights near your home, which are much less attractive to insects.
Mechanical methods of control include vacuuming regularly to remove pests that have already moved into your home to stop them from spreading. Sticky traps are inexpensive and can be placed near insect entry points to monitor for insect access to your home. If only one or two are noted on the sticky trap, you can rest a little, but if you notice that numerous insects are being caught by the trap, stronger control measures may be warranted. Another mechanical option is a fly light trap that can attract the insect away from your home, instead of into it.
The next step would be to enlist chemical methods of control, which would be a perimeter spray directly onto the ground surrounding your home. This will create a ‘barrier’ of protection to reduce the numbers of insects that cross from the outdoors into your home. Insecticide spray’s that contain a pyrethroid are a good option. You can use a nozzle type sprayer to get directly into the homes cracks and crevices.
For the interior of your home, be sure that you do not have excess moisture levels in any rooms or under sinks. Use an insecticide rated for indoor use along base boards, under sinks, and across entry ways. This will help with other insects as well, that may be food sources for your occasional invaders.
Make sure that anything that is sprayed with an insecticide has dried completely before allowing children or pets back into the area.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Bed Bug Resurgence

Bed Bugs are Re-emerging It's Time to Fight Back

Bedbugs been with us longer than you think.

Bed Bugs, Cimex Lectularius, have been with man since we slept in caves. The earliest historical citations about them go back to 423 B.C. In the United States, bed bugs came over with the first explorers and were a problem until the introduction of DDT in the late 1930’s provided the first major advance in bed bug control. Following on the heels of DDT were organophosphates which also provided excellent control.

Throughout the years, an evolving regulatory environment has removed or limited the tools that were available for controlling bed bugs causing infestations to ebb and flow.

New ideas to fight the resurgence of an old foe.

Recently, bed bug infestations have enjoyed a resurgence, to the point where bed bugs are like a new pest. It is not often the pest control industry is faced with new pests to deal with. The occasional introduced ant species can be challenging, but in general these are localized problems. Bed bugs, however, are a nationwide pest problem in the U.S.

The resurgence of this age old pest has become a significant problem in dorm rooms, hotels, apartments, and permanent residences alike. Today’s mobile society and the loss of key pesticide tools present a unique challenge for Pest Management Professionals trying to successfully control bed bugs. A variety of methods need to be implemented for a successful management program.

Knock Bed Bugs down and keep them down.

Conventional adulticides are an important tool, as well as sanitation and exclusion. Other important tools include Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs). IGRs have a strong history of controlling a wide variety of insects such as cockroaches and fleas. In combination with adulticides and other measures, IGRs keep insect populations under control by breaking the life cycle and preventing infestations from rebounding.

Gentrol is an IGR that is well known to Pest Management Professionals (PMPs). Gentrol was introduced to the industry in the id 80’s and has been used to successfully control cockroaches, stored product pests, drain and fruit flies. The recent addition of bed bugs to the Gentrol label offers PMPs another tool in the challenge to control bed bugs.

Additional points of interest for fighting bed bugs.

The primary mode of action for Gentrol is to affect bed bug reproduction. When reproduction is affected the insect population declines, reducing the infestation.

Gentrol works on bed bugs, as in cockroaches, by preventing the nymph from developing into reproductively functioning adults. Electron microscopy shows that in cockroaches and in bed bugs the organs responsible for normal copulation and reproduction do not develop. In the case of male bed bugs, the paramere, or reproductive organ, fails to develop normally. As a result, successful copulation cannot occur.

In addition to reproductive anomalies, there is research showing that some nymphs exposed to Gentrol die prior to molting into adults.

There is information in the public domain that suggest Gentrol causes bed bug females to produce more eggs. This was a one time evaluation where immature bed bugs that escaped being affected by Gentrol produced more eggs than the control replicates. These females that produced more eggs were not exposed to Gentrol at the time they were reproductive.

IGRs can affect fecundity – i.e. adult female insects exposed to IGRs generally produce fewer eggs than unexposed females. According to the Monograph of Cimicidae, bed bug egg production varies between individuals and continues up to 12 weeks after the first blood meal. Egg production during that first week after a blood meal ranged from 5 to 16 eggs per week. Egg production increased as the females aged with as many as 27 eggs produced per week during the 12 week observation period.

In studies generated to satisfy EPA registration requirements, Gentrol provided efficacy by inhibiting the development of the next generation of nymphs by 92%. In other words, nymphs exposed to a Gentrol treatment were unable to reproduce. Mortality was also observed in this study where 66% of the exposed nymphs failed to survive to adults. Of those surviving to adults, reproduction was significantly reduced by 92% from the untreated control population. There as an average of 3 nymphs produced vs. an average of 61 produced in the untreated control group.

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Dupont Altriset Termiticide! The NEW SCIENCE in Termite Control

Dupont Altriset Termiticide 34 oz

Altriset™ works by paralyzing the mouths of termites within hours of ingestion, stopping further damage immediately. But Altriset™ doesn't stop there. It also increases termites' already social behavior. They groom and exchange food, therefore spreading Altriset™ to other colony members.

Here's how it works:



•The first wave of termites to come into contact with Altriset™ walks through it, ingest it and carry it on their bodies. They cannot taste or smell it.
•Within hours, the mouths of exposed termites become paralyzed to stop further feeding.
•Exposed termites experience increased grooming and interaction so that they spread Altriset™ among other colony members.
•Over time, termites become more lethargic and show signs of muscle paralysis.
•Altriset™ eliminates termites within three months or less when used in accordance with the label.
• Complete and Long-Lasting Termite Control Altriset™ provides long-term structural protection by controlling termites and leaving residual protection in surrounding soil so that termites don't return.
In fact, studies show that when used in accordance with the label, just one application of Altriset™ protects your home from termites for years to come.

Results may vary slightly by location. Your Altriset™ termite control professional can outline specific performance guidelines for your region.

After treatment, there are simple steps you can take to ensure maximum results, including:



•Keeping shrubbery trimmed and away from house
•Clearing gutters of water and debris
•Making sure indoor and outdoor plumbing remains leak-free
•Sealing cracks in foundation, patio, steps or masonry siding
•Eliminating stagnant water on or around your home
•Getting yearly inspections by a professional to make sure termites haven't returned

The First Termiticide That Doesn't Make You Compromise Using a termiticide no longer means choosing to protect your home or the environment. Altriset™ has both unparalleled termite protection AND an excellent environmental profile.



No signal word The U.S. EPA requires that all registered pesticides display a signal word on the label, such as "warning" or "caution," depending on the level of toxicity. Altriset™ is the exception. It is the first and only liquid termiticide that does not have any signal word. This is a breakthrough accomplishment based on extensive research and is currently unequaled in the professional pest control industry.



Unique first aid instructions

Altriset™ is the first professional termiticide that does not require any specific first aid intervention if anyone is accidentally exposed.



No special personal protective equipment needed to apply

Likewise, when applying Altriset,™ the termite control professional treating your home is not required by the label to wear special personal protective equipment such as gloves and eyewear.

Low impact on beneficial organisms

Although Altriset™ is extremely effective on termites, its unique chemistry is targeted so that it has little impact on the organisms you do want in your yard—such as honey bees and earthworms.

The First New Termiticide in Nearly 10 Years

Imagine using a computer from the 1990s. You could still get things done, but at a much slower and simpler pace. It just wouldn’t make sense today.

Yet while technology has advanced around us, termiticide chemistry has remained virtually the same. You probably didn’t notice, but DuPont sure did. And decided to do something about it.

Enter Altriset.™ By mimicking a substance found in certain tree bark, DuPont scientists were able to create a breakthrough mode of action that works unlike any other.

Altriset™ targets and paralyzes the mouths of termites to stop them from feeding within hours. Altriset™ also clings to their bodies undetected and enhances social behavior so that it is spread quickly throughout the colony. Your home is termite-free within three months and fully protected for years to come.
But DuPont didn’t stop there. The superior environmental profile of Altriset™ means it’s the first liquid termiticide that doesn’t require any special personal protective equipment to apply, and there are no specific first aid requirements.

Welcome to 2011.

Get yours from ePestSolutions.com today!

Monday, October 10, 2011

Caterpillar Control

In the past week or so, I’ve noticed extremely high numbers of caterpillars EVERYWHERE around my home and in my yard. They are falling from the trees, slinking along the ground, circling my entryways. Truly, the crazy caterpillars are proving to be an extreme nuisance. Beyond being a nuisance, they can cause severe damage to foliage if not kept in check. So, how do we minimize caterpillar populations around our home and yard?

Auburn University helps us with our a little biological information on our guest star. Caterpillars are larvae (the "worm" forms) of insects in the order Lepidoptera¬¬the butterflies, skippers, and moths. In number of species known, Lepidoptera is the second largest of all insect orders. Consequently, caterpillars are numerous; more than 11,000 species occur in North America, with over 5,000 species in the eastern United States alone. Most caterpillars are plant feeders. They occur on a wide variety of plants, and many are serious pests. Caterpillars are among the most common of all insect forms found on foliage of forest, shade, and ornamental trees.

Great, so there are 11,000 plus species waiting to feed on my plants. Where does the DIY pest controller begin? Identification of your particular caterpillar variety can be made easy work by use of a phone camera and an email address to your local extension office. My particular problem caterpillar seems to be the Forest Tent Caterpillar. They love sweet gum and oak trees, so my yard is a haven for them. It all seems that they are extremely cyclical. Numbers seem to rise greatly in 5-7 year periods.

It is recommended that egg cases, larvae and nests be physically removed from trees to discourage large numbers of caterpillars in your area.

When researching available methods of control, LSU Agriculture Extension service recommends, “Management of all these caterpillars requires spraying to reduce the populations, according to Pollet, who says any pyrethroid in combination with liquid soap is an effective control measure. The soap is used with the insecticides so that the insecticide will make better contact with the caterpillar.
"These materials are short-lived and are safe in the neighborhood environment and kill the caterpillars nearly on contact," he said.
Applications of the pesticides can be made using a pump-up sprayer for small plants and around the home. To get into the trees to manage a larger portion of the population, Pollet says the use of a hose-end applicator is effective, since it can shoot a stream of spray about 25 to 30 feet in the air – allowing the homeowner to spray into the trees.


Bacillus thuringiensis and spinosad are non pesticide methods for control but do take longer to see results since they have to be ingested to be effective. Check with your DIY Pest Control Specialist for available products in your area.

Another tip is to conduct any spraying in early morning or late evening when the caterpillars begin to congregate near their nests. You will accomplish more with less chemical by using their natural tendency for your own benefit.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

WASP Freeze Contact Insecticide

Get Rid of Wasps and Hornets with Wasp Freeze Contact Insecticide
Description:
•Specially formulated to provide instant knockdown of wasps and hornets
•Spray can travel 15 ft. to provide applicator safety
•Residual activity ensures complete elimination of the nest
•Formulated with a high dielectric strength and exhibits no breakdown up to 49,300 volts and no arcing at 35,000 volts
•Knockdown is quick so no stinging pheromone is released, thus reducing the possibility of stings


Active Ingredient:


0.25% Dual Pyrethroid Formula


Registered in ALL states.


KILLS ON CONTACT FROM 15 FEET AWAY

For Outdoor Use Only

KILLS:

Bees, Hornets, Spiders, Yellowjackets and Wasps


ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:

d-trans Allethrin .......... 0.129%

Phenothrin ................. 0.120%

OTHER INGREDIENTS:......... 99.751%

Contains petroleum distillate. TOTAL: 100.000%



DIRECTIONS FOR USE:


For optimum performance in overhead treatments, align the actuator opening with the mark on valve cup. When treating in a downward direction, align the actuator opening directly opposite the mark on valve cup.


WASPS AND HORNETS:

Hold container in upright position to treat. Stand safe distance, 6 - 15 feet from nest and not directly underneath. Align actuator opening with the mark on valve cup. Aim actuator opening toward nest. Treat nest until thoroughly wet. Wasps and hornets on nest should be contacted with spray when possible. Best time of day to treat is in evening or early morning, since wasps and hornets congregate on or in nest at night. Do not apply to pets or contaminate food, foodstuffs, dishes or utensils.

For outdoor use only.

To prevent dying insects from falling on skin and clothing, avoid standing directly under nest being treated.

YELLOW JACKETS AND BEES:

Locate underground nest. Align actuator opening directly opposite the mark on valve cup. Depress actuator and treat, with a sweeping motion, any stimulated or stirred-up insects around nest opening. Afterwards, move forward to nest opening and apply liquid for 6 - 8 seconds directly into nest hole. This will suffocate bees and yellowjackets in nest; other bees and yellowjackets trying to return to nest will be repelled and will fly around and away harmlessly.

SPIDERS, INCLUDING BLACK WIDOW AND BROWN RECLUSE:

Apply spraydirectly onto spiders and web.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Pest Control Management: Mom to Mom

During our day, our roles as mothers change as rapidly as the colors on a stop light. We go from loving nurse maid to drill sergeant in the matter of seconds, from world class chef to arts and crafts director, from under paid accountant to tea party mistress. All of our roles are valuable and necessitated, even the roles that we don’t like. One of the motherly roles that we may not like is that of DIY pest controller, but with a few easy prevention strategies you can make that job as easy as hot dog night for dinner.

Therefore, mother to mother, I say embrace your role as pest controller! Do it with gusto and pizzazz, just like you do everything else. But work smarter and not harder, by following a few easy prevention steps to make your home as pest free as possible.

First off,

1-NO, and I mean, NO eating outside of the kitchen dining area. Yes, they will moan, yes they will groan. But, you know as well as I do that children are messy little creatures, who will leave trails of cracker crumbs, and sticky dribbles of grape juice where ever they travel without blinking an eye. They will not alert you to their Hansel and Gretel antics until the ants have marched on in looking for the witch’s candy coated house. So I ask you, would you rather fight off ants, roaches, flies, rodents and spiders in ONE room, or TEN? The choice is up to you. May the force be with You. Also, be certain to use sealed containers for everything bugs or rodents might want to snack on. (Translation: anything edible.)

Secondly,

2. There are SEASONAL duties that you already engage in for your home. Add pest control maintenance to that list. For the New Year cleaning, Spring cleaning, Summer clothes switch out, and Winter clothes switch out, take a few moments to check for signs of pests and to replace your pest bait stations. This helps to make sure that your baits are able to actively reduce populations of any pests who wander in. It would wise to have 2-3 types of baits so that your pest don’t get bored with the bait and keep wanting what you’ve got. Also, be sure to place your baits out of harms way for pets and little people. This could be under your fridge, dishwasher, the tops of cabinets, or under the washer/dryer.

Lastly,

3. When doing spring cleaning, wash anything that can be washed in a high temperature or steam setting. Take extra care to vacuum corners, crevices, baseboards and curtains. Make sure to EMPTY your canister into a sealed bag for disposal in case you did pick up anything. Inspect your home for leaks and any gaps in doors, windows, or screens that may be letting the pests into your home. If any problems are located, walk up to your husband, while offering a beer (or whatever treat makes him happy), hand him the report of deficiencies and then back out of the room slowly.

Following these simple techniques should save time and money and keep your house pest free.

Monday, October 3, 2011

How to Protect Your Family From Pesticide Poisoning

With the recent increase in bed bug activity in the US, there has also been an increase in the misuse of chemical treatment applications by homeowners. The CDC reports, “A total of 111 illnesses associated with bed bug–related insecticide use were identified; although 90 (81%) were low severity, one fatality occurred…The most common factors contributing to illness were excessive insecticide application, failure to wash or change pesticide-treated bedding, and inadequate notification of pesticide application. Although few cases of illnesses associated with insecticides used to control bed bugs have been reported, recommendations to prevent this problem from escalating include educating the public about effective bed bug management.”

How can you protect your family from becoming a statistic in pesticide poisoning?

Education: As with all pest control products, the DIY pest controller needs to be educated about the use of both chemical and non chemical methods of control. Your local extension service, internet or pest control specialist can shed light on the many ways to avoid pests in the first place and to limit reoccurrence.

Prevention: Utilize as many prevention measures as possible to reduce your need for chemical applications. Make your home an unwelcome place for household pests by reducing access through cracks and crevices. Limit their access to water and food sources by maintaining good sanitation and checking your home for leaks, even tiny ones.

Early Detection:
Be aware of common pests in your geographic region and keep an eye out for signs and symptoms related to infestation. Most all pests have some early warning signs that the educated DIY pest controller can identify. It is easier to handle small areas instead of having to deal with a full scale infestation.

Treat the right pest, the right way: Not all chemicals treat all pests. By using the wrong chemical on the wrong pest, you may only scatter your problem to other areas of your home, creating more work for yourself in the end. If unsure, consult with a professional. Most online pest control suppliers have a “help desk” that you can submit inquiry to.

Read, and I mean READ, Labeling: Many of the pesticide poisonings resulted from persons using pesticides rated for outdoor application indoors.

Do not exceed application rates: The pesticide labeling will tell you what the chemical is rated for and the application rates. More is NOT always better when you are protecting your home and family.

Do not reenter your home too soon after application: Even with the right application rates, give your home time to air out, especially when using foggers. Do not reenter prior to the recommended reentry rates listed on the fogger.

Make sure all fabrics that have received application have dried completely: If you are applying pest control products directly to any fabric surface, the fabrics need to have dried before you come into contact with them.

Keep all pesticides out of reach of animals and children: As with all potentially dangerous chemicals, make sure that they are stored far out of reach of little hands and paws.

Friday, September 30, 2011

How to Control Stink Bugs in Your Home

The annual stink bug race is on and stopping them before they make it inside your home is the best chance a homeowner will have to limited their home invasion. These are brown marmorated stink bugs, and they are native to Asia. The stink bug supposedly originated in a shipment of goods at a Walmart store in Pennsylvania sometime before 1998. They were first recorded in Lynchburg in 2005. Now they are in 33 states.
They only want to over-winter inside your home. These Stink bugs will find any entrance they can to gain access to your home. They are simply looking for a warm spot to hang out for the winter.
Really, the best way to control them is to prevent them from coming inside. This can be done by filling all your cracks and crevices that the stink bugs can gain access to, windows, door jams, weep holes, etc. Plug up any utility pipes with silicone caulk and by screening attic and crawl space vents. If your doors and windows are not covered by tight-fitting screens, keep them shut. Seal your house up as tight as possible.
The next step to is to apply an insecticides spray on the exterior of your house. This may will help control stink bugs but it needs to be applied when the bugs first appear or right before a drop in temperature. Do a good perimeter treatment with something like Talstar. You will want to focus on all the areas that we just recommended creating a tight seal with, such as doors, windows and attic vents. Using Talstar should give you a good amount of control; they will come in contact with the chemical as they try to make entry into your home.
Using a vacuum cleaner for stink bugs that do make it inside is a low cost effective method of control. For some homeowners this is not an option as the population is so extensive, using a aerosol pyrethrin like PT 565 is a good option to spray directly on the stink bugs for a quick kill.
Remember to be thorough with your inspections of the entry points, and when perimeter spraying using a residual insecticide. Treating before the stink bug is urged to seek shelter inside your home for the winter is the key to keeping your home stink bug free!

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Protect a Bed AllerZip Mattress Cover at ePestSoltuions!

Our new BugLock™ 3 sided zipper system and ALLERZIP™ seal provide complete protection against allergens, dust mites and bed bugs. Bug Entry, escape and bite proof for complete mattress or box spring protection and a healthy, allergy free sleep zone.

Certified by an Entomology Laboratory to be bed bug proof Superior protection against bedwetting Dust mite barrier and allergy protection Protects against allergens such as pet dander, pollen and mold Full mattress or box spring encasement for total bed bug protection Breathable, waterproof and absorbent 100% cotton terry surface Cool and comfortable to sleep on

Sleep Surface Material: 80% Cotton and 20% Polyester Terry Cloth Side and Bottom Material: 100% Polyester Smooth Surface Water Proof: Miracle Membrane Bed Bug Bite Proof: Miracle Membrane Bug Lock: Yes Allergy Protection: Yes Bed Bug Escape and Entry Proof: Yes Protects mattresses and box springs against Bed Bug Infestations: Yes Alternative Application: Protects mattress and box spring for allergy sufferers Construction: Encases the mattress/box spring completely and has a zipper along 3 sides. Zipper is sealed from the inside for even greater protection. Reinforced seams to ensure that no allergens get through, Waterproof yet breathable barrier seals the allergens in and creates a barrier between the mattress and the sleeper.

Care: Machine wash Hot Tumble dry medium. No Bleach

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I encase just the mattress?

While encasing just the mattress will offer superior sanitation protection, encasing the mattress alone will not help with a bed bug infestation. In fact, most of a bed bug infestation will be present in the box spring, so it is always necessary to encase BOTH the mattress and the box spring.

Are the encasements washable?

Absolutely! Protect-A-Bed's encasements can be machine washed and dried. It is important to note that when washing the encasements, DO NOT use bleach or any form of bleach alternative. Also, when drying the encasements make sure the zipper is fully closed, the encasement is dried with other towels and linens, and that the setting of the dryer is on MEDIUM. NOTE: Only remove the encasements to wash in a PRE-INFESTATlON setting. Never remove the encasements in a POST-INFESTATION setting . Can I use chemicals on the mattress prior to encasing them? All commerically available chemicals can be used prior to encasing the bedding. However, allow the chemical agent to sufficiently dry before covering the bedding.

Available in Twin, Full, Queen, and King

Monday, September 26, 2011

Primo Steam Cleaner for Killing Bed Bugs!

PRIMO... The Italian word for “First” is the basis of Vapamore's philosophy. The MR-100 Primo is the first steamer of its kind. We listened to our customers and developed the all new Primo from the ground up to included all the innovations and features you requested. Our Primo philosophy applies to every aspect of Vapamore’s dedication to customer satisfaction, such as a full Lifetime Warranty and the highest level of Customer Service possible. Vapamore is the first choice in quality steam cleaning products.

The Vapamore MR-100 Primo produces steam with an output temperature between 210¢ª to 220¢ª degrees. Pests such as bedbugs, dust mites and other allergens along with their eggs are killed on contact at a temperature of 180¢ª degrees. Using steam is an extremely effective and chemical free way to kill these pests along with E. Coli, Salmonella, H1N1 and other bacteria or viruses without leaving any harmful chemical residue behind. The tools supplied with the Vapamore MR-100 Primo allow you to treat all areas where these pests can hide such as bedding, sofas, furniture, pillows, carpet, cracks and crevices that are ideal hiding places for pests.

The clothes / fabric tool with the cotton cover is ideal for treating bedding, furniture, pillows, and carpet areas around bed posts and base boards. Start by installing the supplied cotton cover on the clothes - fabric / smooth surface tool. Apply light consistent pressure and slowly pass it along the surface (1¡± per second) to insure the area being treated has a chance to come to full temperature killing pests and their eggs.

The floor cleaning head with micro fiber cover is also great for treating large surface areas such as bedding, furniture, and carpet areas. Start by installing the supplied micro fiber cover on the floor cleaning head. The micro fiber cover thermal core maintains full temperature during use and allows the floor cleaning head to glide over fabric or carpet.



Apply light consistent pressure and slowly pass it along the surface (1¡¯¡¯ per second) to insure the area being treated has a chance to come to full temperature killing pests and their eggs.

The detail adaptor can also be used on its own as a straight jet nozzle tool or along with the 90 degree jet nozzle attachment. These tools are great for cracks and crevices. Make sure to concentrate the steam directly on the area to be treated with as minimal distance as possible, no more than 1¡¯¡¯ away. The steam will condense and cool off and not be effective to kill pests and their eggs if the jet tip is not directly on the surface being treated. The detail adaptor can be attached directly to the steam gun or to any of the extension tubes.

Visit us at ePestSolutions.com to learn more!

Friday, September 23, 2011

Taurus SC! There Isn't Much It Won't DO!

TAURUS SC can be used for controlling ALL of the following pests:

•Asian lady beetles, darkling beetles
•Australian, Oriental, and smoky brown cockroaches
•Black widow, brown recluse, cellar, and hobo spiders
•Box-elder bugs, pill bugs
•Brown and dog ticks
•Centipedes
•Cluster flies
•European earwigs
•House crickets
•Millipedes
•Paper wasps*
•Silverfish
•Yellow jackets
and ANTS!

Taurus SC Available size 20 oz bottle New Taurus SC is a water based suspension concentrate of 9.1 % Fipronil for pre and post termite treatments. Only recently released on the market Taurus SC termiticide and insecticide can help homeowners save even more money doing their own pest and termite control. New Taurus SC with 9.1 % Fipronil compared to Termidor SC which has 9.1 Fipronil the same active ingredients. Taurus SC is a non-repellant insecticide labeled for termite treatments, ant treatments and for home perimeter treatments for other pest listed below.

Taurus SC will eliminate a termite colonies as quickly as 3 month. When used for ant control Taurus SC can eliminate and extermintate workers and a colony in only a few weeks after application. Please read and follow all label instructions.

This termiticide insecticide is labeled for outside use only

Not only will it control termites but Taurus SC will help the consumer control a wide variety of insects including ants, spiders, roaches, centipedes, millipedes, ticks, and many more (see complete list on label or call our toll free number 1-888-523-7378 for free professional recommendations).

One 20 oz. bottle of Taurus SC will makes 25 gallons, and a 78 oz. bottle makes 100 gallons.

Packaging: 20 oz


•Active Ingredient: 9.1 % Fipronil

•Target Insects: Termites, Ants (Acrobat, Argentine, Big-Headed, Carpenter, Crazy, Odorous, Pavement, Pharaoh, and Thief), Asian lady beetles,
Darkling beetles, Cockroaches (Australian, Oriental, Smoky Brown), Black widow spiders, Brown recluse spiders, Cellar and Hobo spiders,

Box-elder bugs, Pill bugs, Brown and dog ticks, Centipedes, Cluster Flies, European Earwigs, House Crickets, Millipedes, Paper Wasps, Silverfish, Yellow Jackets.

•Yield: Applied at a 0.8 fluid ounces per gallon (0.06% dilution) for most applications, 20 oz. makes 25 gallons, and 78 oz. makes 100 gallons of dilution.
•Pet/Children Safe Follow label instructions
•Usage Sites: Outside. It is labeled for inside use in wall voids only.
•Cannot be shipped to : AK, MA,NY, or CT
•Manufacturer: Control Solutions


How To Apply Taurus SC for Controlling Termites

Apply at a rate of 4 gallons of dilution per 10 linear feet per foot of depth, this is the standar mixture rate for termiticides.

When you are doing a termite treatment of the outer perimeter of a structure it is a matter of treating all of the soil as close to the structure. You will want to simply dig a small trench against the foundation of the home. It should be 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep for the appropriate size trench to apply the Taurus SC. Then apply your termiticide into the trench at the rate of 4 gallons of diluted chemical per 10 linear feet.



This can become a little more difficult if you have a slab that comes all the way up to the foundation of the house where you want to treat with your termiticide. The most common are garages, porches, and patios. It is recommended that you drill through the concrete in order to access and treat the soil. The drill holes should be no farther apart than 12 inches and should be within 6 inches of the foundation. Use a 1/2 inch diameter drill bit that is specific for concrete. ½ holes are small enough to drill fairly easily, yet large enough to allow the chemical to pass through quickly. Use a 18 inch drill bit and you may want to rent a rotary drill for the day to make this job go easier.

Apply the chemical though the holes that you drilled with a slab injector or other suitable method. The application rate is the same as when you applied to the trench 4 gallons of termite chemical (diluted) per 10 linear feet. If your drill holes are 12 inches apart then you should use 4/10 gallon per hole. After treating the holes seal them with Trebor ½ inch plugs. Trebor plugs are easy to put in and can be removed for retreats.



For most applications, use the 0.06% (.8 fluid oz) dilution and apply at a rate of 4 gallons of dilution per 10 linear feet per foot of depth. For example, for treatment of 10 linear feet with a four-foot depth, use 4 x 4 (16) gallons per 10 linear feet. Do not apply at a concentration less than 0.06%. Use the higher concentrations (0.09% or 0.125%) in areas with severe termite pressure or existing infestations. Apply the higher concentration at a rate of 4 gallons of solution per 10 linear feet per foot of 4 - depth. For example, for treatment of 10 linear feet with a four-foot depth, use 16 (4 x 4) gallons per 10 linear feet. In dense soil that will not accept a volume of 4 gallons per linear foot per foot of depth, use the 0.125% dilution, and apply at a rate of 2 gallons per 10 linear feet per foot of depth. For example, for treatment of 10 linear feet with a four-foot depth, use 8 (2 x 4) gallons per 10 linear feet. When using the lower volume of application, be careful to maintain a continuous treated zone. If application requires drilling, drill holes less than 12" apart to maintain a continuous treated zone

How Taurus SC works for Ants

Taurus SC is an excellent insecticide for ant control because of its non-repelling chemical structure. You will want to mix 0.8 oz of Taurus SC termiticide insecticide per 1 gallon of water in a pump sprayer. By spraying around the house in a band pattern that goes 1 ft up the side of your house and 1 ft out from the house. Using the Taurus mixture in this way will be setting up a great ant perimeter treatment. Make sure to remove vegetation that may be touching the house so the ants and other pests won't be able to bypass the treatment.

Other areas of spray would be more entry points such as : doors (don't spray near door handles), windows, pipes, cracks, vents, holes, etc. Make sure to treat the joint where exterior siding (wood, vinyl, aluminum or other similar materials) meets the cement, brick or block foundation. Treat anywhere electrical, cable or telephone wires enter the house.

Always follow the product label according as these are recommendation. You may only apply Taurus SC twice a year according to label instructions. Spring and Fall season are typically the most active times of the year for ants and would be the recommended application times to control and prevent ant infestations.

Perimeter Pest Treatment:



•TAURUS SC is not a knockdown agent and will not kill on contact

How to Mix your Taurus for Perimeter Pest Treatment

For a perimeter pest control treatments mix a 0.06% spray dilution of TAURUS SC by filling the treatment tank 1/4 to 1/3 full with water, then add 0.8 fluid ounces of TAURUS SC.

The filling hose must be equipped with an anti-backflow device or the water flow must include an air gap to protect against back siphoning. Add more water to the tank while agitating to 1 gallon of finished dilution.

Apply 0.06% of finished TAURUS SC dilution as a low-pressure spray to the exterior of the structure where listed pests enter, trail around the structure or where they crawl and hide. Also apply around any exterior openings where listed pests could enter the structure such as around doors, windows, vents, pipes, foundation cracks or drilled holes. Make sure to treat the joint where exterior siding (wood, vinyl, aluminum or other similar materials) meets the cement, brick or block foundation. Treat anywhere electrical, cable or telephone wires that enter the house. This Taurus SC treatment should be made as a general surface spray, crack and crevice spray, or a wall void application.

TAURUS SC may be applied as a foam treatment into wall voids to kill and / or control the above listed pests. It will require an additional foaming agent and a foaming system like the Foamer Simpson or a B&G Foamer.

Apply 2 quarts of 0.06% finished spray of TAURUS SC per 160 linear feet. Refer to the "Foam Application" section of this label for specific foam mixing and application instructions.

Except for foam applications made into wall voids, application is limited to an area 1 foot out from and 1 foot up from were the ground meets the foundation. Do not exceed a maximum of 2 applications per year.



Nests found on the ground within 1 foot of the foundation may be treated. Vegetation touching the structure may offer a route for the entry of ants into the structure without coming into contact with the treatment; therefore, remove or prune away any shrubbery, bushes, and tree branches touching the structure

•Do not apply to applications to runoff or drip from treated surfaces.
•Do not apply to boat houses, including their piers or pilings.
•Do not apply within 5 feet of wells or cisterns.
•Do not apply to French drains or other permeable drainage.
•Doors and windows adjacent to application site must be closed during surface application.
•Do not apply within 15 feet of bodies of fresh water; lakes, reservoirs, rivers, permanent streams, marshes, natural ponds and commercial fish ponds. A 15- foot buffer of uniform groundcover must exist between application zone and bodies of fresh water (uniform ground cover is defined as land which supports vegetation of greater than 2 inches in height throughout).
•Do not apply within 60 feet of estuarine bodies of water. Estuarine water bodies are brackish, tidal water bodies such as bays, mouths of rivers, salt marshes and lagoons.




Visit ePestSolutions.com today and make those pest go away!