Choosing the Right Bait For Rodent Control

The level of rodent activity determines the proper bait for the job. Proper bait selection and application will determine the success of the rodent control job.


Knockdown and Cleanout


Final and Fastrac are good for quick knockdown of population to a manageable population. An acute rodenticide, like Bromethalin found is fastrac, works in the shortest amount of time.
Select a higher toxicity, single-feed rodenticide for a heavy infestation where there is strong food competition within the active population.

Reduction and Elimination


Contrac and Final

Controls a persistent infestation
In areas where a non-target animals are present, select a single-feeding bait which is lower in toxicity ( Contrac)


Prevention and Maintenance


Contrac and JT Eaton


Once the population is under control, maintain a comprehensive rodent control program
Monitor for new activity


A second-generation anticoagulant (Contrac) is recommended for occasional invaders to ensure they ingest a lethal dose in a single feed.
Bait stations are highly recommended for whichever bait you choose


Choosing the Correct Bait Formulation
Extruded Blox Bait
Most popular choice
Highly palatable and weatherable
Can be used indoors and outdoors
Features multiple gnawing edges
Has a hole down center for easily securing into bait stations




Pellets
Pellets are excellent choice for burrow baiting
Weatherablilty makes pellets popular for moist weather conditions
Hard, compact shape satisfies a rodent’s desire to gnaw

Liquid Baits


Ideal for use when food is abundant
Liquid Bait (liqua tox) is more acceptable for dry areas
Strategically place liquid baits where rodents will readily encounter them
Do not place bait in rat burrows, rats are neophobic and will remove any foreign object






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Rodent Proofing Your Home and Commercial Property

Eliminate all conducive areas and conditions

Harborage reduction

Eliminate the rodent’s food and water source.

Identify harborage areas

Keep vegetation and tall grass short. Tall grass protects rodents from predators.

Keep overhanging trees cut back. Overhanging trees provide dark shadowy areas where rodents feel sake and protected.

Piles of debris should be removed. Garbage provides food harborage areas for rodents

A 2 foot wide barrier of cement or crushed rock should be established around commercial structures

Dumpsters are one of the most common rodent problem areas.

Make sure dumpsters are large enough to prevent spills.

Make sure dumpsters have tight lids.

Store dumpsters 25-50 yards from the exterior of structure if possible.

Identify areas that need to be rodent proofed (proceed after rodent knock down has occurred)

Close all holes in exterior and interior walls

Permit no openings over ¼”

Install self-clsomh devices on frequently used doors

Install vinyl or rubber sweeps under garage doors to eliminate any gaps

Seal all pipes, drains and vents, they need to be tight.

Chimneys need to be capped and in good condition.

Remember a rat can fit through a ½ inch opening and a mouse can fit through a ¼ inch opening.


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Rodent Biology (Rats and Mice)

Norway Rat

The Norway rat has an average body weight of 10 to 17 oz, often well over a pound!!; The body is heavy and broad, usually between 7" and 10"; The head is long and has a blunt nose; The Norway rat tail is usually about 6 inches long, and is never as long as the body; The ears are typically small and held tightly against the body; The color is brown to black on the back and sides, and gray to yellow on the belly.
Droppings are blunt and have an average length of 3/4 of an inch

The Norway Rat prefers to feed on meats, fish, flour, fruits, vegetables...meaning it will eat almost any human consumed food!!! The Norway Rat will consume about 1 oz of food per day and about ¾ of an oz of water, and produce anywhere from 30 to 180 droppings; there are from 6 - 18 pups in a litter, and 3 – 7 liters per year; adults live about 18 months.
The Norway rat usually nests in basements & lower portions of buildings. They quite often burrow in the soil and have extensive runs. The Norway rat is active primarily at night; They are fair climbers but good swimmers; Rats are suspicious of changes in the environment or new foods, for this reason it may take a couple of days for traps or poison baits to take. Rats are nocturnal, with their peak activity at dusk or before dawn. When the population is large or they are disturbed or hungry, you can see activity during the day.

Roof Rat

The Roof Rat average body weight is 6 to 12 oz, and has a long slender body, usually 6 to 8 inches in length; the nose is pointed compared to the Norway Rat and the ears are large and very prominently displayed; The tail is long and uniform in color, and can usually reach the tip of its nose; The color is black on the back and grayish white on the underside.
Droppings are pointed and average 1/2" in length
The roof rat typically eats seed, fruits, vegetables, and grains and eggs; the roof rat will consume about an oz of food and an oz of water each day, producing 30 to 180 droppings per day; There are 6 – 14 pups in a litter, and 3 – 7 liters per year; adults live about 18 months.
Roof Rats usually enter and nest in upper portions of buildings. They can nest outside in trees, especially in palms and ivy; They rarely burrow and are excellent climbers; Very active at night; Rats are suspicious of changes in the environment or new foods, for this reason it may take a couple of days for traps or poison baits to take. Rats are nocturnal, with their peak activity at dusk or before dawn. When the population is large or they are disturbed or hungry, you can see activity during the day.

House Mouse

The house mouse weighs only 1/2 to 3/4 of an oz; Average body length is 2.5" to 3.5"; The tail is usually 3 to 4 inches in length; Ears are large and prominent; The house mouse is gray on it's back and lighter gray on it's belly;
The droppings are pointed and average 1/4" in length
The house mouse prefers meats, grains, cereals, seeds, fruits, vegetables, and will eat almost anything a human will consume; The house mouse consumes 1/10th an oz of food per a day and 1/20th an oz of water; Droppings produced are around 50 per day; There are 6 young in a litter, and 8 liters per year; adults live about 15 - 18 months;
The house mouse may nest in any portion of the building near food; They only have an average range of 50 feet from the nest; Active mostly at night; Nibbles small amounts of food instead of consuming a large meal; Very curious.

Simple Guide For Rat and House Mouse Identification

This is a simple and easy to understand guide to help any homeowner determine what is being heard moving around in your attic and crawl spaces, whether roof rats, Norway rats, or the house mouse. Good information and easy to implement solutions for all your rodent needs.

House Mouse
The house mouse weighs only 1/2 to 3/4 of an oz; Average body length is 2.5" to 3.5"; The tail is usually 3 to 4 inches in length; Ears are large and prominent; The house mouse is gray on it's back and lighter gray on it's belly;
The droppings are pointed and average 1/4" in length
The house mouse prefers meats, grains, cereals, seeds, fruits, vegetables, and will eat almost anything a human will consume; The house mouse consumes 1/10th an oz of food per a day and 1/20th an oz of water; Droppings produced are around 50 per day; There are 6 young in a litter, and 8 liters per year; adults live about 15 - 18 months;
The house mouse may nest in any portion of the building near food; They only have an average range of 50 feet from the nest; Active mostly at night; Nibbles small amounts of food instead of consuming a large meal; Very curious.

Norway Rats

The Norway rat has an average body weight of 10 to 17 oz, often well over a pound!!; The body is heavy and broad, usually between 7" and 10"; The head is long and has a blunt nose; The Norway rat tail is usually about 6 inches long, and is never as long as the body; The ears are typically small and held tightly against the body; The color is brown to black on the back and sides, and gray to yellow on the belly. Droppings are blunt and have an average length of 3/4 of an inch
The Norway Rat prefers to feed on meats, fish, flour, fruits, vegetables...meaning it will eat almost any human consumed food!!! The Norway Rats will consume about 1 oz of food per day and about ¾ of an oz of water, and produce anywhere from 30 to 180 droppings; there are from 6 - 18 pups in a litter, and 3 – 7 liters per year; adults live about 18 months.
The Norway rat usually nests in basements & lower portions of buildings. They quite often burrow in the soil and have extensive runs. The Norway rat is active primarily at night; They are fair climbers but good swimmers; Rats are suspicious of changes in the environment or new foods, for this reason it may take a couple of days for traps or poison baits to take. Rats are nocturnal, with their peak activity at dusk or before dawn. When the population is large or they are disturbed or hungry, you can see activity during the day.

Roof Rat

The Roof Rat average body weight is 6 to 12 oz, and has a long slender body, usually 6 to 8 inches in length; the nose is pointed compared to the Norway Rat and the ears are large and very prominently displayed; The tail is long and uniform in color, and can usually reach the tip of its nose; The color is black on the back and grayish white on the underside.
Droppings are pointed and average 1/2" in length.
The roof rat typically eats seed, fruits, vegetables, and grains and eggs; the roof rat will consume about an oz of food and an oz of water each day, producing 30 to 180 droppings per day; There are 6 – 14 pups in a litter, and 3 – 7 liters per year; adults live about 18 months.
Roof Rats usually enter and nest in upper portions of buildings. They can nest outside in trees, especially in palms and ivy; They rarely burrow and are excellent climbers; Very active at night; Rats are suspicious of changes in the environment or new foods, for this reason it may take a couple of days for traps or poison baits to take. Rats are nocturnal, with their peak activity at dusk or before dawn. When the population is large or they are disturbed or hungry, you can see activity during the day.

Mouse and Rat Control Solutions from epestsolutions.com

Non-Chemical Control

Trapping is recommended where poisons are inadvisable (Commercial kitchens, homes, schools, etc.)
Trapper T-Rex Rat Trap
Trapper Rat Glue Board
Catchmaster 72 MB Glueboards
Ketchall Mouse Trap
Trapper Mice snap traps
Pro-ketch Mice Trap
Trapper Polarbear glueboards

http://epestsolutions.com/info/mouse_rat_control_solution.htm


Glue traps are effective when placed in a rodent's runway between their harborage areas and their feeding are, but they will not work in a wet or dusty environment.

Trapper Rat Glue Board (heavy duty, to hold the rat there) http://www.epestsolutions.com/1104/Trapper+Rat+Glue+Boards+Traps.html

Catchmaster 72 MB Glueboards (great for insects also and very cheap! )

http://www.epestsolutions.com/1126/Catchmaster+72MB+Glueboards.html

Snap traps work well on both rats and mice. When trapping for rats it is best to place the traps inset, but baited, for several days to acclimate the rats to the traps. Mice will readily investigate snap traps, and little balls of cotton tied to the triggers work well as a bait
Trapper T-Rex Rat Trap (This traps work and nothing will get out of the T-rex’s grip)

Snap-E Mouse Trap (available for mice and rat)
Automatic traps are very effective for capturing mice, but they will not work on rats. Place them in the same manner as you would baits.
Ketchall Mouse Trap (Repeating mouse trap, can't beat this for mice, wind the knob, setting the internal spring mechanism. Catch them and all there friends while you sleep.)
Proketch Mouse trap, multiple catch, low profile and glueboards can be set inside to get the mice to stick and creates easy disposal. Can be used without glueboards for a more humane release program.

Baiting
Place baits in safe secluded area where the rodents are frequenting. Proper placements of bait are more important than the type of bait used.

Contrac Blox Rodenticide
Final Blox Rodenticide
Contrac Place Packs
JT Eaton Rodent Bait Blox

http://www.epestsolutions.com/1180/Contrac+Blox+Rodenticide.html

Put out more bait than you think is necessary. Under baiting is one of the most common mistakes in rodent control.
Use bait forms that are best suited for the particular conditions, such as wax blocks (Contrac Blox) for damp areas, cereal (meal) baits (Contrac Place Pacs) where bait security is a must, and tracking powders (ZP) where competitive foods are abundant.

Contrac Blox Rodenticide
Contrac Place Packs
Final Blox
JT Eaton Rodent Bait Blox

Be sure to follow label directions and use bait stations and the newer tamper-resistant stations when possible, to prevent any accidental poisoning of non targeted animals.

EZ-Kleen Rat Bait Station Setting Your Trap Video
Protecta Keyless Bait Stations
Protecta RTU Mice Bait Stations

http://www.epestsolutions.com/1061/E-Z+Kleen+Rat+Bait+Stations.html

Protecta Rodent Landscape Rock
Store baits in areas where chemical contamination will not occur. Rodents can detect the contamination and will not consume the contaminated baits.

Exclusion
It is much easier to control rodents outside a structure rather than within, so the most successful and permanent form of rodent control is to “build them out.” Cracks and openings in building foundations must be sealed. Doors, windows, and screens should be tight-fitting.Use materials that are rodent “gnaw proof” such as copper mesh (Stuff-it) sheet metal, expanded metal, perforated metal, iron grills, hardware cloth, and cement mortar. Materials having an opening 1/4 inch or less will exclude both rats and mice.
Copper Stuff-it

Sanitation
Reduce harborage by eliminating weed's, refuse piles, overgrown vegetation, and rubbish piles.
Place garbage and trash in garbage cans and industrial dumpsters with tight fitting covers.
Proper sanitation will benefit any rodent control program.
There is no substitute for sanitation, and the program must be continuous or the benefits derived will be quickly lost to reinvading rodents.
Eliminate as much of the rodent's water source as possible, as rats need water daily and mice will drink freestanding water if available.

We have put together some terrific rodent control kits that we believe will get the job done and done right. Take a look and order today and get a jump start on your rodent problem.
View Our Rodent Kits at
http://www.epestsolutions.com/Rats_Mice.html

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